EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power

EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power

Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training. We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alice-hafer

Nuggets:

0:05:35 – Perfectionism in writing and interviewing

0:09:30 – What Alice learned from her friend Brad Gobright

0:13:05 – Using second-tier routes to stretch our comfort zone

0:14:07 – “Fear is a signal that you are becoming a better climber.”

0:16:45 – Getting covid twice in three weeks

0:18:03 – Setting boundaries for ourselves, and reaching our higher selves

0:20:27 – What expectations are

0:21:05 – Patron question from Ryan: Can you share a favorite story about Brad Gobright?

0:26:51 – Alice’s climbing journey, getting sick after her trip to Madagascar, her dad’s stroke, and carrying emotional weight

0:34:23 – How her relationship with climbing has evolved, and seeing Brad’s passion for climbing

0:37:00 – Pro climbers aren’t always sending, and passion and motivation

0:39:42 – How Jonathan Siegrist stays psyched, thinking smaller within our constraints, and pivoting

0:45:34 – Living in the UK, and being most comfortable with what you spend the most time doing

0:49:33 – “Who am I outside of climbing?”

0:52:31 – Finding a new identity, and Alice’s experience with depression

0:58:35 – Detaching your identity from whatever you are dealing with, and changing your thought and behavior patterns

1:02:42 – Examining the three biggest beliefs you have about yourself, and valuing the climbing experience

1:05:18 – Neuroplasticity, and rewriting our self-beliefs

1:12:12 – Focusing on process over outcome

1:15:55 – Climbing matters

1:18:15 – Exposing yourself to new ideas, and saying “stop” to negative thoughts

1:22:07 – “I have plenty of time.”

1:23:55 – Setting clear and small goals, letting go of perfectionism, and giving ourselves permission to fail

1:36:06 – Awareness, pausing, and intervening

1:41:18 – Struggling with belonging, finding supportive friends, and putting your best effort forward

1:46:03 – The pressure that comes with success, and focusing on becoming a better athlete

1:54:47 – The value in trying hard projects

1:57:42 – How Alice uses goals to give her focus

1:59:10 – What Alice learned from trying Weekend at Bernies (5.14a or b)

2:01:35 – Jonathan Siegrist’s 50:50 split, and why balancing projecting with sending easier routes is important for motivation

2:05:19 – How Alice is training her weaknesses for Weekend at Bernies

2:08:55 – Using box jumps to train power for climbing, and catching holds with a firm body

2:13:01 – Thoughts on campusing vs. fast pull-ups for power

2:15:35 – How little volume it takes to get stronger, and my story with pistol squats

2:16:27 – Mental training for fast results, and how Alice sent her second 5.14 by focusing on effort

2:20:23 – “You quit when you stop learning.”

2:21:40 – Patron question from Fiona: Can we train our mental game? How do we measure progress?

2:25:39 – Everyone needs something different when it comes to mental training

2:26:41 – How to measure mental training progress

2:29:00 – Where to connect with Alice

2:30:43 – Alice’s final advice for listeners

2:36:34 – Feeling like a superhero, and the story of sending her second 5.14

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EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

William Woodward (@wheretowillie on Instagram) is a climber, skier, and professional travel photographer. We talked about the beginnings of ‘Where to Willie’, balancing work and passion, finding meaningful stories and doing work that matters, Will’s daily routines, rules for life, photo advice, and three things he is grateful for.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/william-woodward  Nuggets:  1:33 – Ruby the Vanagon  4:48 – Will’s defining moment, early travels, blogging, and the start of Where to Willie  8:50 – Will’s career transition and taking the leap as a freelance photographer  19:06 – Finding meaningful work and Will’s three-year plan  25:25 – Capturing experiences vs. being present  27:11 – Will’s daily meditation practice  29:51 – Will’s five coffee making methods  31:05 – Running and stolen bicycles  31:51 – Will’s process for finding freelance work and choosing brands to work for  33:06 – Pitching trips and photo projects  34:42 – The business of selling photography and his book recommendation  38:50 – Balancing work and passion and getting out of a rut  41:34 – “Rule number one: always swim”, flowered shirts, and other rules for life  45:10 – Hiking in Patagonia and a world record in Iceland  55:00 – Advice for traveling photographers and capturing the in-between moments  59:55 – Will’s writing, gear reviews, and tutorials  1:03:17 – Being part of the activity vs. keeping up on the latest gear  1:05:23 – One of Will’s personal mottos–“Get closer.”  1:05:52 – Will’s climbing progression and his relationship to climbing  1:08:36 – Alpine technical leadership training, sport climbing at Smith  1:10:46 – Will’s first trip to the Bugaboos, recent climbs, and plans for Mt. Stuart  1:13:29 – Promoting the outdoors vs. seeking solitude  1:14:06 – Why Will bought a new film camera and shooting film vs. digital  1:15:57 – “It’s ok to ask for help.”  1:17:15 – Will’s advice for himself at age 20  1:18:27 – Coolant, blown head gaskets, and why it’s always worth taking the time  1:19:43 – Will’s upcoming trip to NZ and giving yourself time to let things happen  1:20:57 – Will’s three gratitudes  1:22:34 – Journaling, writing as a habit, and why it has fallen off recently  1:23:55 – What’s next for Where to Willie  1:25:31 – Social media plugs  1:26:13 – Chasing great light

3 Feb 20201h 27min

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

Chris Wright is a professional mountain guide who splits his time between guiding, skiing, and climbing some of the most remote peaks in the world. We talked about his recent team FA of Link Sar in Pakistan, lessons from mentors, favorite post-expedition foods, and how to build an anchor in f***ed up snow.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-wright  Nuggets:  1:51 – How the Link Sar trip came to be and Chris’s first climbing trip with Steve Swenson  9:33 – The history and geopolitics of northeast Pakistan and the Siachen Conflict  13:59 – Chris and Graham’s FA on Celino Peak and plans for Link Sar  17:59 – Why it took 8+ months to prepare for Link Sar and why the permitting process can be a gamble  23:51 – Training for Link Sar and working with Scott Johnston and Uphill Athlete  29:10 – The Link Sar team, different roles, and the best types of partners for an expedition  34:32 – What Chris learned from climbing with Mark and Steve  37:15 – Chris’s philosophy around failure, and his ‘failed’ attempt on Link Sar in 2017  40:45 – Graham’s 100-ft fall, terrible snow conditions, and rope systems  53:15 – The final pitch, Mark’s moment of glory, and reaching the summit  59:36 – Three days of rappelling and building anchors in f***ed up snow  1:03:27 – Why Chris is excited to go sport climbing this winter  1:07:28 – Thai fried chicken and favorite post-expedition foods  1:10:21 – Chris’s free-solo ascent of the Matterhorn north face  1:15:19 – Shooting video, a Link Sar movie project, and cooking as a creative outlet  1:18:36 – Advice for someone interested in expedition climbing  1:23:37 – Getting out there and finding adventure  1:25:40 – What Mark and Steve learned from Chris  1:27:54 – Why Chris is really excited to be “off-leash” for a while  1:29:55 – Ideas for the next expedition  1:31:06 – What Chris feels most grateful for lately  1:32:12 – Where you can find (and climb with) Chris

2 Feb 20201h 33min

EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)

EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)

Lizzy VanPatten is a rock climber and the founder of She Moves Mountains, a guiding company with the mission of helping women realize their strength through rock climbing. We talked about Lizzy’s brief music career, building a business, breaking into 5.12 trad, assessing fear, and her gratitude practice.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lizzy-vanpatten  Nuggets:  1:25 – Rollerblades (and Rollergangs)  2:31 – Lizzy’s brief music career, transition into rock climbing, and her first trip to Patagonia  12:03 – Starting guiding, seeing women come alive, and becoming a business owner  19:06 – Taking big leaps and why it’s hard to feel embarrassed  26:23 – She Moves Mountains growth and where things are at now  29:50 – How Lizzy makes her guides feel stoked while giving herself freedom  35:47 – Self-doubt and the importance of building a solid team  37:49 – One piece of advice for herself and running her business to pay her guides well  42:30 – Finding challenge through projecting and climbing ‘Der Sportsman’ first try  47:33 – Lizzy’s first 5.12, climbing 5.12 in four different locations, and ‘Winter Sustenance’  51:08 – Sending 5.12 fourth try and flashing two 12+ routes on top rope  52:09 – A nasty fall Lizzy took this summer  58:07 – The importance of having a goal  1:02:25 – Training for ‘Moonlight Buttress’ and projecting fear  1:07:08 – The curse of being a technical climber, pistol squats, and trying ‘Churning’  1:10:20 – Calm meditation app, highs and lows, Lizzy’s gratitude practice, and the negative bias  1:18:58 – The one thing Lizzy is most grateful for right now  1:20:44 – She Moves Mountains apparel  1:23:05 – She Moves Mountains upcoming events  1:27:39 – Lizzy’s final thoughts on facing and assessing fear  1:31:12 – Quote from Anaïs Nin

1 Feb 20201h 32min

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