Murder in Thailand: Kevin Maes Talks About His Book "Kingdom of Trials" [S8.E15]

The Victory Monument area of Bangkok is unique in that it combines the old - the monument itself is of a Thai victory against the French in WWII - and the new - the skytrain and multiple modern condo developments. Click here to see a great blog by Greg where you can compare old and new photos of the same area - including the Victory Monument, taken in 1946. Greg uses the compass to circle around Victory Monument, describing the various areas that surround the chaotic transport hub. One nearly universal theme is great street food, as an apparently unlimited number of Thais seem to live and work in the area. Another gem is of course Saxophone Pub, probably the most well known live music venue in all of Thailand (but check who's playing before you go!). Just around the corner is Soi Rangnam, packed with street food, restaurants, condos, and a unique mix of both Thais and foreigners heading to dine, drink, see movies, and shop at the iconic King Power HQ - although you're not allowed to leave with any of the merchandise you buy. It's a duty-free thing...listen for details. All in all, Victory Monument may not be first on your list of places to check out in Bangkok, but if you want a great, local experience (usually meaning shopping, eating, and also eating), Victory Monument is a must-visit. And don't forget to check out our friend Ivan's Kickstarter page. Help him get his Thai-language book on English-language pronunciation into schools throughout Thailand! As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And we'll keep our Facebook, Twitter, and LINE accounts active so you can send us comments, questions, or whatever you want to share.

23 Okt 201832min

A common dream for many expats in Thailand is to open their own bar or restaurant. Ed interviews Matthew Fischer, a local restaurateur and bar owner, who has successfully started two bars in Bangkok - Fatty's on Rama IX, and the Fat Tap off of Ekkamai. Matthew recounts the trials and tribulations that took Fatty's from a mere whisper of an idea to a six-year Bangkok institution. But it certainly ain't for everyone - Matthew's tale is a cautionary one. Long hours in the kitchen, the stress of finding the right location, and the complications of working with your partner all present real (but surmountable) obstacles. Even with his success, he insists that bars are bad as pure investments - but there is a bright side: foreigners with a true passion can succeed at starting their own bar or restaurant in Thailand. Matthew has taken his Wisconsin cuisine of burgers and beers (and lots of cheese) and transplanted it to the other side of the world, giving Thais, expats, and tourists the taste of real, homegrown American food, all at a reasonable price. If you want to follow in Matthew's path, just get ready to sweat. :) As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And we'll keep our Facebook, Twitter, and LINE accounts active so you can send us comments, questions, or whatever you want to share.

16 Okt 201841min

This week's subject is the fascinating mythology of Thai ghosts, which, as anyone who has spent any time here knows, are a pretty big deal in Thai culture. In the west, ghosts and the supernatural are met with skepticism by most, so it's easy to be dismissive. But Ed puts things in perspective by saying that Thailand's ghost stories work better if you think of them like the mythology of Greek gods - huge, varied, and very creative. As someone who teaches a critical thinking class, Ed opines about urban vs rural belief stats, before both he and Greg get into some of the more interesting Thai ghosts (Ed's favorite - creepy banana ghost. Greg's favorite: floating head attached to intestines). No matter how you take it, Thai ghost mythology deserves heaps of appreciation for its sheer creativity and ties to Thai culture ancient and modern. If you want a crash course in understanding what makes Thailand different from other countries, start researching Thai ghosts! To get your started, here's the trailer for a really creepy-looking Thai video game about ghosts, as well as this very funny commercial that shows how ubiquitous they are. Enjoy - but keep the lights on. :) As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And we'll keep our Facebook, Twitter, and LINE accounts active so you can send us comments, questions, or whatever you want to share.

9 Okt 201838min

Ed interviews Thanita 'Ninar' Wongprasert, a former UN employee and long time activist in the LGBTQI community in Thailand. Ninar talks about what it's like to be gay in Thailand in general and points out that every individual's experience is different. Ed and Ninar then discuss whether Thailand is liberal or conservative - and why such black & white classifications might be doing the pontificator and country a disservice. And speaking of disservice - given Thailand's non-confrontational culture, it can sometimes be hard to determine whether gays are accepted or just tolerated by Thailand's mai pen rai culture. Each person's take will be different, of course, but Ninar points out that the government has traditionally been conservative and very reluctant to extend equal rights to the gay community. In the end, they discuss the somewhat ironic possibility that the current non-democratic military government may grant marriage rights to same sex couples before the expected elections early next year. Love is love, y'all. As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And we'll keep our Facebook, Twitter, and LINE accounts active so you can send us comments, questions, or whatever you want to share.

2 Okt 201842min

Greg and Ed try something new with the first in a series of episodes that look at interesting events in Bangkok's history. For this one, they delve into one of Thailand's most interesting personalities - Phlaek Phibunsongkram. Phlaek, or simply Phibun, was a military man who gained prominence as a member of the group that organized the 1932 coup that ended absolute monarchy in Thailand. Phibun was enamored with the fascist leaders of Europe and crafted a cult of personality around himself in Thailand. Along with his partner in crime Luang Wichitwathakan, or Wichit, Phibun led an ethno-nationalist movement designed to both define what it means to be 'Thai' and to modernize Thailand so that it could join the developing world. Consequently, Siam's name was changed to 'Thailand' to make clear that a particular type of ancient Chinese immigrant was the true race of the country. But Phibun and Wichit also passed national 'guidelines' for using western silverware and even western clothing such as bowler hats for men - not to mention ordering the creation of Thailand's signature dish, pad thai! The story only gets weirder and more complicated when the Japanese Army shows up on Thailand's doorstep in the early days of WWII with an ultimatum for Phibun. In between there are coups, counter-coups, declarations of war, daring escapes, and crafty espionage stories that would be right at home in a Tom Clancy novel - with Phibun usually right in the middle of it all. Listen in to get the scoop on this thoroughly interesting Thai leader. Trust us - it's hard to believe some of this even happened! As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And we'll keep our Facebook, Twitter, and LINE accounts active so you can send us comments, questions, or whatever you want to share.

25 Sep 201845min

Greg interviews Kisnaphol "Keng" Wattanawanyoo, an expert in the informal aspects of urban life, and in the case of Bangkok, the plethora of mobile street vendors. While Bangkok is in a rush to modernize and clean up its streets, the mobile vendor subculture is alive and well - but for how long? Greg and Keng discuss where these folks come from, where they buy their merch, and explains the informal network they use to keep each other up to date, train new recruits, and mark their territory. Above all, they represent the best of the entrepreneurial nature of Thais, many of whom seem willing to travel long distances to set up their own businesses. However, Keng points out that the Thai government often takes a more negative view of the informal economy of Bangkok and see it as contributing to the chaos and disorder of the city - despite many (such as construction workers in the rapidly multiplying building projects) relying on them to get affordable, convenient food and supplies. Plus - Love, Loathe, or Leave - the ubiquitous Bangkok ice cream sandwich. As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And we'll keep our Facebook, Twitter, and LINE accounts active so you can send us comments, questions, or whatever you want to share.

18 Sep 201832min

Greg and Ed jump into the tricky issue of whether it is worth it for expats to gain permanent residency status in Thailand, also known as PR. It's a good topic, because while Greg is still a stateless savage, Ed actually does have PR. So what is PR? Essentially, it's a permanent visa that obviates the need to do border runs or 90 day reporting. But significantly, Thai PR does not include the right to work or the right to own property; plus, it can be expensive, at 195,000 baht for the those not married to a Thai, and 95,000 baht for those who are. Further, the application process is a bit of a nightmare and can take years to complete. So is it worth it? Greg and Ed debate this, while also discussing the positives, negatives, and unknowns of taking such a big step on the "I'm a legitimate farang living in Thailand" express train. Want to learn more? Here are a few links to get you started. As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And we'll keep our Facebook, Twitter, and LINE accounts active so you can send us comments, questions, or whatever you want to share.

11 Sep 201839min

The podcast is very pleased to welcome back journalist Patrick Winn, who previously appeared on the show in its very early days - episode 11 of season 1, to be precise. Patrick recently authored a book called "Hello Shadowlands: Inside the Meth Fiefdoms, Rebel Hideouts, and Bomb-Scarred Party Towns of Southeast Asia" and the subject matter is as exciting as the title would suggest. Patrick discusses his time in Myanmar with gangs of militant Christians who kidnap drug addicts in an attempt to force them to go straight, his adventures in Vietnam with NVA veterans who ambush thugs stealing pet dogs for their meat, and violent gangs in the Philippines. Patrick also stresses the overwhelming size of the underworld dedicated to one drug - 'ya baa', a potent, cheap, mass-produced form of methamphetamine. Greg and Ed tease the details out of Patrick on how this criminal network affects Thailand and what the causes may be for the apparent increase in corrupt activities throughout Southeast Asia. As always, the podcast will continue to be 100% funded by listeners just like you who get some special swag from us. And we'll keep our Facebook, Twitter, and LINE accounts active so you can send us comments, questions, or whatever you want to share.

4 Sep 201843min