EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences

EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences

Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you’ve probably never heard of. That is unless you’ve climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins

Nuggets:

0:05:22 – Todd’s pancake beta

0:08:29 – Growing up in the Mormon church

0:10:40 – Cannabis

0:17:50 – Solar-powered weed smoking

0:19:41 – “Get down from there!” and how Todd got introduced to climbing

0:23:08 – Getting into route development in the 90s, and learning from Jorge Visser and Randy Leavitt

0:28:34 – Developing routes at the Cathedral,

0:31:26 – Climbing Planet Earth at the VRG, and progressing from 12a to 14a (7a+ to 8b+) in two years

0:33:18 – Chris Sharma’s psych for climbing as a 15-year-old kid

0:35:07 – Longevity, gratitude, and being present

0:39:08 – Setbacks, trying Golden for a Moment 14b (8c), and using a portable fan 20 years ago

0:45:51 – Coming back from hip surgery and other setbacks

0:48:28 – More about being present

0:56:00 – What motivates Todd in his climbing these days

0:57:52 – Having an out-of-body experience on Planet Earth, and other most meaningful ascents

0:59:24 – My (Steven’s) two hardest routes and how different those experiences were, and Todd’s thoughts on mental tenacity

1:05:24 – Adventure in sport climbing and route development, and Todd’s near-death experience

1:11:01 – Spirituality, the intelligence of the cosmos, and the goods and bads of religion

1:16:15 – Steven shares some thoughts on the damaging parts of growing up in a religion

1:19:37 – What Todd learned from studying Buddhism

1:21:00 – Aliens

1:33:14 – Nuclear testing in the 50s and 60s

1:36:48 – Why Todd never left St George

1:39:07 – Plans to try Flight of the Conchords 14c (8c+) this winter

1:42:27 – Trusting your intuition, getting lots of sleep, and not pushing too hard

1:47:07 – Wrap up, and we should all spend more time thinking about something other than climbing

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EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

William Woodward (@wheretowillie on Instagram) is a climber, skier, and professional travel photographer. We talked about the beginnings of ‘Where to Willie’, balancing work and passion, finding meaningful stories and doing work that matters, Will’s daily routines, rules for life, photo advice, and three things he is grateful for.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/william-woodward  Nuggets:  1:33 – Ruby the Vanagon  4:48 – Will’s defining moment, early travels, blogging, and the start of Where to Willie  8:50 – Will’s career transition and taking the leap as a freelance photographer  19:06 – Finding meaningful work and Will’s three-year plan  25:25 – Capturing experiences vs. being present  27:11 – Will’s daily meditation practice  29:51 – Will’s five coffee making methods  31:05 – Running and stolen bicycles  31:51 – Will’s process for finding freelance work and choosing brands to work for  33:06 – Pitching trips and photo projects  34:42 – The business of selling photography and his book recommendation  38:50 – Balancing work and passion and getting out of a rut  41:34 – “Rule number one: always swim”, flowered shirts, and other rules for life  45:10 – Hiking in Patagonia and a world record in Iceland  55:00 – Advice for traveling photographers and capturing the in-between moments  59:55 – Will’s writing, gear reviews, and tutorials  1:03:17 – Being part of the activity vs. keeping up on the latest gear  1:05:23 – One of Will’s personal mottos–“Get closer.”  1:05:52 – Will’s climbing progression and his relationship to climbing  1:08:36 – Alpine technical leadership training, sport climbing at Smith  1:10:46 – Will’s first trip to the Bugaboos, recent climbs, and plans for Mt. Stuart  1:13:29 – Promoting the outdoors vs. seeking solitude  1:14:06 – Why Will bought a new film camera and shooting film vs. digital  1:15:57 – “It’s ok to ask for help.”  1:17:15 – Will’s advice for himself at age 20  1:18:27 – Coolant, blown head gaskets, and why it’s always worth taking the time  1:19:43 – Will’s upcoming trip to NZ and giving yourself time to let things happen  1:20:57 – Will’s three gratitudes  1:22:34 – Journaling, writing as a habit, and why it has fallen off recently  1:23:55 – What’s next for Where to Willie  1:25:31 – Social media plugs  1:26:13 – Chasing great light

3 Feb 20201h 27min

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

Chris Wright is a professional mountain guide who splits his time between guiding, skiing, and climbing some of the most remote peaks in the world. We talked about his recent team FA of Link Sar in Pakistan, lessons from mentors, favorite post-expedition foods, and how to build an anchor in f***ed up snow.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-wright  Nuggets:  1:51 – How the Link Sar trip came to be and Chris’s first climbing trip with Steve Swenson  9:33 – The history and geopolitics of northeast Pakistan and the Siachen Conflict  13:59 – Chris and Graham’s FA on Celino Peak and plans for Link Sar  17:59 – Why it took 8+ months to prepare for Link Sar and why the permitting process can be a gamble  23:51 – Training for Link Sar and working with Scott Johnston and Uphill Athlete  29:10 – The Link Sar team, different roles, and the best types of partners for an expedition  34:32 – What Chris learned from climbing with Mark and Steve  37:15 – Chris’s philosophy around failure, and his ‘failed’ attempt on Link Sar in 2017  40:45 – Graham’s 100-ft fall, terrible snow conditions, and rope systems  53:15 – The final pitch, Mark’s moment of glory, and reaching the summit  59:36 – Three days of rappelling and building anchors in f***ed up snow  1:03:27 – Why Chris is excited to go sport climbing this winter  1:07:28 – Thai fried chicken and favorite post-expedition foods  1:10:21 – Chris’s free-solo ascent of the Matterhorn north face  1:15:19 – Shooting video, a Link Sar movie project, and cooking as a creative outlet  1:18:36 – Advice for someone interested in expedition climbing  1:23:37 – Getting out there and finding adventure  1:25:40 – What Mark and Steve learned from Chris  1:27:54 – Why Chris is really excited to be “off-leash” for a while  1:29:55 – Ideas for the next expedition  1:31:06 – What Chris feels most grateful for lately  1:32:12 – Where you can find (and climb with) Chris

2 Feb 20201h 33min

EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)

EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)

Lizzy VanPatten is a rock climber and the founder of She Moves Mountains, a guiding company with the mission of helping women realize their strength through rock climbing. We talked about Lizzy’s brief music career, building a business, breaking into 5.12 trad, assessing fear, and her gratitude practice.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lizzy-vanpatten  Nuggets:  1:25 – Rollerblades (and Rollergangs)  2:31 – Lizzy’s brief music career, transition into rock climbing, and her first trip to Patagonia  12:03 – Starting guiding, seeing women come alive, and becoming a business owner  19:06 – Taking big leaps and why it’s hard to feel embarrassed  26:23 – She Moves Mountains growth and where things are at now  29:50 – How Lizzy makes her guides feel stoked while giving herself freedom  35:47 – Self-doubt and the importance of building a solid team  37:49 – One piece of advice for herself and running her business to pay her guides well  42:30 – Finding challenge through projecting and climbing ‘Der Sportsman’ first try  47:33 – Lizzy’s first 5.12, climbing 5.12 in four different locations, and ‘Winter Sustenance’  51:08 – Sending 5.12 fourth try and flashing two 12+ routes on top rope  52:09 – A nasty fall Lizzy took this summer  58:07 – The importance of having a goal  1:02:25 – Training for ‘Moonlight Buttress’ and projecting fear  1:07:08 – The curse of being a technical climber, pistol squats, and trying ‘Churning’  1:10:20 – Calm meditation app, highs and lows, Lizzy’s gratitude practice, and the negative bias  1:18:58 – The one thing Lizzy is most grateful for right now  1:20:44 – She Moves Mountains apparel  1:23:05 – She Moves Mountains upcoming events  1:27:39 – Lizzy’s final thoughts on facing and assessing fear  1:31:12 – Quote from Anaïs Nin

1 Feb 20201h 32min

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