EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality

EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality

Alayna Joy is a queer content creator and YouTuber, and newly obsessed climber. We talked about her journey of discovering she is gay, coming out publicly on her already-successful YouTube channel, how climbing has become an anchor for her, compulsory heterosexuality, questions we should ask ourselves, queerness in climbing, why our climbing progress slows down over time, and much more.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Become a Patron:

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alayna-joy

Nuggets:

0:06:36 – Julio

0:09:27 – Places that feel like home

0:16:32 – Feeling like I already know Alayna from watching her channel, and parasocial relationships

0:19:37 – Sharing her story to make others feel less alone

0:21:39 – Starting her YouTube channel in high school, her first three videos, and hitting 800 subscribers

0:27:30 – Working as a server during university, and getting her first YouTube brand deal

0:31:38 – The phenomenon of being an introvert and a content creator

0:34:39 – Bisexuality, and the first time Alayna came out

0:37:54 – Being in a serious relationship with a man, and feeling disconnected from her queerness

0:42:54 – Coming out to her partner as gay, and talking herself out of it

0:46:25 – The constant little voice in her head convincing her she was happy

0:48:08 – “The big oopsie”

0:51:26 – Being afraid that she was playing into bisexual stereotypes by coming out as gay

0:54:41 – Compulsory heterosexuality (comp het), and why it took Alayna so long to realize she was gay

0:58:08 – Why Alayna thought she was demiromantic for most of her adult life

1:00:19 – Seeing the world through new eyes

1:05:16 – “I’m in therapy, and I’M TIRED!”

1:06:05 – Alayna pays me a very nice compliment, and I talk about drawing people in and hoping they learn something that goes beyond rock climbing

1:10:43 – I come out as not a lesbian, and Alayna asks everyone listening to ask themselves a question

1:12:54 – “Climbing is gay.”

1:18:36 – How climbing became an anchor for Alayna

1:21:17 – Working on her relationship with climbing

1:23:32 – Making quick progress as climbers early on, why our progress slows over time, and the magic of climbing

1:32:01 – The stories our brains tell us

1:34:36 – So Cards! (socards.org, use code NUGGET for 20% off)

1:36:29 – So Cards question 1: “If you never had to worry about money, what’s one goal that you would dedicate yourself to?”

1:40:00 – So Cards question 2: “When you were a kid, what scared you about growing up?”

1:46:05 – So Cards question 3: “What do you think people tend to take for granted in their relationships?”

1:53:14 – You’re not alone, and living your life as your most authentic self

1:56:00 – Patron question from Wren: How was your experience finding a queer community within the larger climbing community, and do you have any tips for queer climbers finding these spaces?

2:00:26 – Where to find Alayna on the internet

Avsnitt(384)

EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights

EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights

Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey’s husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking. We talked about his background in cli...

4 Apr 20222h 32min

Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Steve McClure. We talked about highlights from the past year since our first interview, sending ‘Lexicon’ E11...

29 Mars 202234min

EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno

EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno

Dr. Favia Dubyk is a pathologist, cancer survivor, Ninja Warrior, cat lover, and badass boulderer. We talked about the connective tissue disorder that led her to specialize in lowball roof climbing, w...

28 Mars 20223h 1min

EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common

EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common

Jerry Moffatt is one of my all-time climbing heroes. He is a British legend and was arguably the best rock climber in the world during the mid to late 80s. We talked about his early days, wanting to b...

21 Mars 20221h 53min

EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories

EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories

This is round 2 with John Sherman aka “The Verm”. We sat in the desert near Hueco Tanks and chatted over a few beers. We talked about ‘Wheatiesgate’ and the lost art of heckling, finding and developin...

14 Mars 20224h 7min

Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Josh Wharton. We talked about how his flash attempt went on ‘Freerider’ this past November, big wall tac...

12 Mars 202227min

EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder

EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder

Martin Keller is a Swiss boulderer, climbing coach, and teacher, and is known for his long-term dedication to his bouldering projects. We talked about spending 150+ days projecting his FA of ‘Ninja Sk...

7 Mars 20222h 46min

EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience

EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience

John Sherman is a bouldering legend. His nickname “Verm” (short for “Vermin”) is where the “V” in our bouldering grade system came from. We sat down in a cave in Hueco Tanks and talked about what boul...

28 Feb 20222h 4min

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