Dr. Tyler Nelson: Stronger Wrists, Stronger Climbing

Dr. Tyler Nelson: Stronger Wrists, Stronger Climbing

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson (normally $10) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

In this episode focused on all things wrists, Dr. Tyler Nelson brings the science and application, covering:

  • Why there’s been a steady rise of wrist injuries in climbers
  • How to train up wrist flexion strength to perform better on slopers
  • The reason bigger holds can be more injurious
  • Google won't show you the most common climber injury
  • Wrist Wrench vs. Rolling Thunder
  • Set and rep scheme for wrist training
  • To tape or not to tape?
  • Recovery time frames for wrist injuries
  • How to return to hard climbing faster after an injury

-

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

Check out Tyler's course on wrist injury and rehab, and his many other fantastic courses: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/store

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Introduction and Overview

00:27 Welcome and Guest Introduction

00:44 Understanding Wrist Injuries in Climbers

02:56 Personal Experiences and Injury Management

04:32 Training and Strengthening Techniques

46:24 Managing Wrist Injuries in Climbing

47:39 Personal Experiences with Wrist Pain

50:09 Common Wrist Injuries in Climbers

57:48 Recovery and Rehabilitation Strategies

01:15:23 Training Tips and Final Thoughts

-

Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

-

Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Jaksot(186)

Dr. Thomas Cunningham, MD: Pro Clinic on Supplementation and Biohacking to Boost Strength, Recover Faster, Improve Endurance, and Feel Better

Dr. Thomas Cunningham, MD: Pro Clinic on Supplementation and Biohacking to Boost Strength, Recover Faster, Improve Endurance, and Feel Better

In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Thomas Cunningham, MD covers: Clinical trials and studies that show the most promise for enhancing performance and health on and off the rock Supplements and biohacks that r...

25 Syys 202441min

Cedar Wright: Suffering with Honnold, the Future of Free Soloing, Dirtbagging, Paragliding, and Boogie Til You Poop

Cedar Wright: Suffering with Honnold, the Future of Free Soloing, Dirtbagging, Paragliding, and Boogie Til You Poop

Elite climber Cedar Wright shares epic stories of suffering with Alex Honnold, learning the ways of Yosemite, Paragliding competitions, Free Soloing culture, and what it means to be a dirtbag. Plus, B...

18 Syys 20241h 28min

Finger Training 2.0 with Zachary Laschober of Specialized Masochism

Finger Training 2.0 with Zachary Laschober of Specialized Masochism

Climbing Coach Zachary Laschober joins to discuss: Sports-specific versus non-sport-specific finger training Limitations of the "standard" 20mm flat edge Hand and finger physiology for optimal pe...

11 Syys 20241h 18min

Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Finger Injuries, How to Focus Our Training, Naked in Nature, Dating Apps, and Dick Jokes

Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Finger Injuries, How to Focus Our Training, Naked in Nature, Dating Apps, and Dick Jokes

Anna Hazelnutt is back with another Crag Chat packed with laughs, musings, updates, struggles, beta, and whatever else is on our minds, including: The climbing posters that hung on Anna’s childhood wa...

4 Syys 20241h 16min

Kai Lightner: Sending 5.15a and Beyond, Adapting to a Bigger Body, Competitor's Mindset, and the Future of Climbing

Kai Lightner: Sending 5.15a and Beyond, Adapting to a Bigger Body, Competitor's Mindset, and the Future of Climbing

Elite climber Kai Lightner shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAP...

28 Elo 20241h 29min

Useful Coach Tom Herbert: Pro Clinic on Fueling for Better Performance, Recovering Faster, and a Method to Cut Weight Without Cutting Calories

Useful Coach Tom Herbert: Pro Clinic on Fueling for Better Performance, Recovering Faster, and a Method to Cut Weight Without Cutting Calories

In this Pro Clinic, Tom Herbert covers: How to "stack" carbs and protein around a workout Getting a head start on recovery after a hard sesh How nutrition changes for "on" days vs "off" days The bias ...

21 Elo 202436min

Matt Samet: Building Strength and Power, Being Coached by Nina Williams, Redpoint Tactics, and Dealing with Anxiety On and Off the Rock

Matt Samet: Building Strength and Power, Being Coached by Nina Williams, Redpoint Tactics, and Dealing with Anxiety On and Off the Rock

Elite climber Matt Samet shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTE...

14 Elo 20241h 36min

Road to 13a with Eric Hörst: Part IV

Road to 13a with Eric Hörst: Part IV

Coach Eric Hörst is back to coach Ryan on his hardest project to date, his first 13a. This beta-packed conversation covers: What went right and wrong on Ryan's almost-send last season How to carry a p...

7 Elo 20241h 32min

Suosittua kategoriassa Terveys ja hyvinvointi

unicast
rss-hanna-tikander
psykopodiaa-podcast
tiedenaiset-podcast
puhu-muru
rss-pitaisko-erota
rss-narsisti
voi-hyvin-meditaatiot-2
vakeva-elama-viisaampi-mieli-vahvempi-keho
terapiassa
meditaatiot-suomeksi
rss-pt-paahtio
aamukahvilla
rss-vapaudu-voimaasi
rss-kyykkya-ja-kuoharia
junnut-pelissa
rss-kuumilla-aalloilla
rss-rentoudu-podcast-rentoutumiseen-hanna-viljanmaa
paritellen
rss-en-saa-unta