EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast

EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast

Jeannie Wall (aka “The Energizer Bunny”) is a world-class skier, life-long mountain athlete, and obsessed climber. She cofounded Broad Beta to cultivate a community for women and genderqueer folks to share their stories of outdoor adventures in the mountains. We talked about lessons from her upbringing, the importance of partnerships and mentorship in climbing, slowing down to go fast, engaging with the edge of our comfort zone, ordinary people doing extraordinary things, and much more!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeannie-wall

Nuggets:

0:08:38 – Overview of our conversation, and growing up as the youngest of 11 children

0:14:22 – Baggage and benefits from her upbringing, and being competitive as a racer

0:16:52 – The chapter of life that Jeannie is in now, and learning patience

0:19:22 – Competing at the Olympic Trials for nordic skiing, and why she doesn’t miss competing and racing

0:23:58 – Shifting toward climbing, and how she has changed in her 50s

0:25:38 – Examples of people climbing hard in their 60s, and Jeannie’s hut ski trip

0:28:07 – Why Jeannie finally got hooked on climbing

0:34:12 – Getting Swine Flu, dealing with chronic fatigue for two years, and finding a different path in climbing

0:36:14 – “If you wanna go fast, you have to go slow most of the time.”

0:41:31 – How media influences us in climbing, and giving the last 10% to be excellent at something

0:47:02 – My inner tension with bouldering, the role of mentorship, and Jeannie’s story of climbing Fitz Roy

0:54:42 – Challenge and risk as key parts of the human experience

1:01:18 – “If we’re not learning are we really happy?”

1:05:25 – Engaging with the edge of our comfort zone

1:07:13 – The pressure to be someone other than who you are

1:12:33 – The value of pursuing your passion

1:15:05 – Wildness, and why Jeannie and Leslie started Broad Beta

1:24:20 – Heroes, looking at the whole person, and the stories of ordinary people doing extraordinary things

1:28:42 – Why stories are so powerful

1:33:02 – Sharing the whole story, and Jeannie’s menopause article

1:38:09 – Jeannie’s vision for Broad Beta

1:45:12 – Where to find Broad Beta

1:47:10 – Wrap up and final questions

Jaksot(388)

EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall

EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall

Connor Herson is the kid who free climbed ‘The Nose’ at fifteen years old. What most people don’t know is that he is also an incredible sport climber. We talked about his sport climbing goal at age fo...

10 Elo 20201h 23min

EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber

EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber

Tyson Schoene has been the head coach of the Vertical World Climbing Team in Seattle, WA for nearly 20 years, and has shaped some of the best climbers in the world including Drew Ruana, Sean Bailey, a...

3 Elo 20202h 23min

EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities

EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities

Blake Cason is a mindfulness and work/life balance coach, and the founder of Pivot Wellness. We talked about bringing awareness to our relationship with climbing, practicing radical honesty, ways of s...

27 Heinä 20201h 46min

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

Audrey Sniezek is a software engineer for Microsoft and a former professional climber. We talked about her beginnings in both computer science and climbing, becoming a morning person, her 4 a.m. warmu...

20 Heinä 20201h 50min

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

Ben Herrington is a professional route setter and likely Washington’s most prolific boulderer. We talked about why Ben performs best as a “weekend warrior”, his three go-to training sessions, mistakes...

13 Heinä 20201h 41min

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

Nathan Hadley is a professional route setter and an all-around rock climber. We talked about completing the Canadian Alpine Trilogy, the benefits of training using bouldering circuits, how to practice...

6 Heinä 20201h 24min

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

Paige Claassen is a professional rock climber and the founder of the Southern Africa Education Fund. We talked about pre-send rituals, breathing techniques, how she changed her diet to improve recover...

29 Kesä 20201h 4min

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

Jasna Hodžić is part writer, part scientific researcher, and part badass rock climber. We talked about sending her first 5.14a, ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ at Smith Rock, about practicing her anti-style to...

22 Kesä 20202h 20min

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