EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project

EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project

Fundamentals (Part 5 of 6) — In part 5 of this series, Jesse and I share our tips and pitfalls for picking a project. As Jesse says in this episode, picking the right projects is a key part of having a satisfying climbing experience. We cover some of our best projecting experiences, as well as times we botched it, and we try to pass on what we learned along the way. Have fun projecting!

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Jesse’s Original Episode:

EP 127: Jesse Firestone

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-part-5

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:26) – Plans for season 2 of Fundamentals!

(00:04:12) – Why picking the right project matters

(00:05:41) – Jesse’s experience on Turbulence V11/12 in Leavenworth, WA

(00:07:05) – My experience on Eternia V11 in RMNP, CO

(00:09:39) – Jesse’s epic to climb his first V10 in OR

(00:11:34) – Times I’ve botched it with picking projects, and a good experience on Crime Wave 5.13d at Smith Rock, OR

(00:15:58) – Jesse’s experience with Boxcar 5.13c at the Rat Cave, OR

(00:17:04) – Steven’s Tip #1: If you are trying to do the hardest thing you have ever done, make everything else easy

(00:18:09) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Ask yourself the ABC questions: Is it accessible, badass, and challenging?

(00:21:03) – Bonus Tip: Know thyself

(00:22:08) – Steven’s Tip #2: Remember that grades are a relative difficulty marker and they’re not absolute

(00:24:01) – Jesse’s Tip #2: A V-grade is a poor substitute for motivation

(00:27:16) – Steven’s Tip #3: Think about what your last 3 months, 6 months, and year have looked like in terms of your climbing

(00:27:56) – Steven’s Tip #4: Think about what the 1 and 2 month lead up time to the project is going to look like (and choose a pre-project if you can)

(00:29:55) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Once you’ve committed to trying to do something, it’s ok if you only want to do it because of the grade/difficulty

(00:33:55) – Steven’s Tip #5: Pick a challenge that excites you

(00:37:27) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overcommitting to a tick list, and not leaving room for serendipity

(00:40:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Picking a limit project that is a pain in the ass in one or more ways

(00:42:13) – Jesse’s realization from trying The Teacup V13 in Leavenworth, WA

(00:43:00) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Letting all of your other climbing suffer because you are just trying one project (I.e. Be careful about oneitis!)

(00:45:35) – Bonus Tip: Take the things you see on Instagram with a grain of salt

(00:48:00) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Picking a limit project with a single low-percentage move

(00:50:45) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Listening too much to other people (Don’t let yourself be put in a box!)

(00:53:02) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Not adjusting the grade appropriately to find the correct level of challenge

(00:54:20) – Jesse’s Pitfall #4: Picking a project just because it’s there

(00:54:50) – Jesse’s Pitfall #5: Not giving yourself a break between hard projects

(00:56:37) – Summaries are in the show notes!

(00:57:17) – Jesse’s Top Tip: Learn to pay attention to that little voice in your head that tells you what’s inspiring

(00:58:04) – Steven’s Top Tip: If you trying to do the hardest thing you’ve ever done, stack all the cards in your favor

Jaksot(382)

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Syys 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Syys 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Syys 20241h 10min

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain...

27 Elo 20242h

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Elo 20241h 2min

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into s...

19 Elo 20245min

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electr...

12 Elo 20242h

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