Dermatologist Talks: Skincare Science8 Helmi 2024

Skincare Decoded: Complete Skincare Course for Experts

On-Demand Workshop on Skincare Routine Steps

Welcome to The Slide Show with Dr.TWL Episode 2, where we present skin science in bite-sized formats. Today we will be covering the first, fundamental step in skincare routines, makeup removal.

Makeup removal

What are the two main formulation options for makeup removers?
The first is a micellar formulation. The second, an oil-based cleanser or an emulsion, sometimes known as a “milk” cleanser. I will go through the pros and cons of each but first let us define some terms.

How does micellar water work?

Micellar water works by hydrophobic (water-hating) and hydrophilic (water-loving) properties of a micelle. The makeup residue is attracted to the water-hating aspect, this is best thought of as a ball that is wrapped up which continues to roll on skin grabbing the residual pigment and dirt. To remove the ball which is a micelle, you use a cotton pad. Friction or rubbing is inevitable and this can be harsh for sensitive skin.

What is the downside to oil cleansers?

Pure oil cleansers are often too greasy, my choice is an emulsion or a milk cleanser. Milk cleansers are oil in water formulations, the oil component dissolves makeup pigments and removes excess sebum. The “like for like” principle here is that oil soluble pigments are dissolved in a similar substance—an oil in water emulsion.

What is the difference between emulsion vs oil cleansers?

The benefits of an emulsion are that it is less greasy than pure oil formulations. It is also effective as a humectant if formulated with moisturising ingredients. When you physically rub off the makeup on a cotton pad, the oil component protects your skin. It acts as a barrier between the cotton pad and skin, hence reducing friction unlike with micellar solution.

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