EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic Movements, the Benefits of Indoor Climbing, and Cultivating Confidence

Louis Parkinson is a London-based climber and coach and is one of the best in the world at teaching dynamic movement. We talked about the benefits of indoor climbing, how practicing comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing, sending his first 8B in Magic Wood, timing your breathing with hard moves, skill drills for experienced climbers, how to break down dynamic movements, cultivating confidence, and much more!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-parkinson

Nuggets:

0:04:10 – The culture of indoor climbing

0:06:45 – The benefits of climbing indoors, and Louis’ success on short outdoor trips

0:10:27 – Rehabbing my bicep tendon injury in the gym, and what I noticed on the rock afterward

0:13:55 – London

0:15:24 – A week in the life of Louis Parkinson

0:20:52 – Beginners try hard

0:24:38 – Efficiency, and dancing vs wrestling

0:30:18 – How did Louis get the nickname Captain Cutloose?

0:34:16 – Louis’ first trip to Magic Wood, and sending the Foxy Lady dyno (7C?)

0:38:56 – Riverbed 8B (V13), and his amazing tick list for the trip

0:43:30 – Comparing ourselves to our previous bests

0:48:04 – How to time your breathing with your climbing

0:55:20 – Practicing new skills medium intensity climbs

0:58:05 – How Louis thinks about practicing skills

1:01:50 – Skill Drill: Sticky hands sticky feet

1:06:25 – The Moonboard and Brad Pitt

1:08:20 – Skill Drill: Body awareness and understanding compromises

1:15:20 – Skill Drill: Using momentum

1:17:28 – My experience on Burl Master 5.13c (8a+), and learning about contextual difficulty

1:21:05 – Risk, Intensity, and Complexity

1:23:47 – How practicing modern comp-style boulders can help your rock climbing

1:29:10 – Jan Hojer flashing Jack’s Broken Heart 8A+

1:36:22 – How to break down dynamic moves into smaller pieces

1:40:18 – Forgetting the details and going for it

1:41:58 – The Inner Game of Tennis

1:47:17 – How Louis spends his limited climbing time these days

1:52:04 – Cultivated confidence

1:58:06 – Being intensional with your language

2:02:36 – Growth mindset

2:04:34 – Wrap up