EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands

EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands

It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our cabin. These guys are all total crushers and most importantly, they have a lot of fun. Join us for a crackling good time!

Huge thank you to Liam Andrews-Bancroft for the incredible music at the end of this episode.

Troy's Video:

Pawtuckaway Bouldering - Warrior V3

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  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

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Austin's Previous Episode:

EP 97: Austin Hoyt

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/troy-austin-bryce

Nuggets:

0:07:13 – Flipping cars and stealing clothes

0:12:00 – “Brad… it's, it’s bad.”

0:18:15 – Troy’s top 3 most scary climbing experiences

0:26:26 – Plans for Tuesday and Monkey Wedding

0:28:13 – Living Large and Finish Line

0:31:13 – Progress on Monkey Wedding, and Austin’s longest project

0:32:43 – Austin’s efforts on Lucid Dreaming, and Alex Megos taping video

0:35:13 – Quintessential and Industry of Cool

0:38:25 – Bryce’s trip so far

0:39:52 – Favorite zones in Rocklands

0:43:24 – Pure, and how fast the level is changing

0:45:36 – Highlights from Rocklands, and having fun

0:48:59 – Industry of Cool, hiking 300+ miles to send The Nest, and unfinished business in Spain

0:52:45 – Sport climbing aspirations, and Max Zolotukhin falling off of Super Nova while trying to free solo it

0:58:17 – Challenging access, and do New England climbers have more fun?

1:02:03 – Potential and rock quality in the NE, and Bryce’s job

1:09:07 – Troy’s job detailing cars, and climbing in West Virginia

1:11:32 – Austin’s tick list

1:14:14 – The variety of styles in Rocklands, and toe hook training

1:16:48 – How long everyone has been climbing, and the BMX connection

1:20:02 – The new crop of young talent

1:24:42 – Most recent comps, and the shorter shelf life of top-level competitors

1:29:41 – Ultimate dream boulders

1:31:31 – Trying climbs way above and below your level, and the V15 goal

1:34:49 – Ethan’s goal to find 5.15 in the Sierra Nevada, and the rarity of all-natural hard routes

1:38:01 – Choss and rain and Hueco, and Ethan’s top 3 favorite bouldering areas

1:41:30 – Almost dying on the topout of The Mandala

1:42:58 – “Dad I’m bread. ”

1:44:31 – Will we climb until we die?

1:45:57 – Mystery climbs in Rocklands

1:48:18 – The drunk comp, and the Anchorman of climbing

1:51:59 – The Lifetime Project guy

1:53:44 – Milkshakes and final goals for the trip

1:57:28 – Airstar getting action

1:58:51 – Ethan’s most epic bat hangs

1:59:58 – Austin’s send of Direct North

2:01:00 – Near misses

Jaksot(382)

EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith

EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith

Anak Verhoeven is a professional climber from Belgium and one of the most accomplished female sport climbers ever. We talked about growing up with her mom as coach and dad as trainer, why she quit com...

5 Helmi 20242h 44min

EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’

EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’

Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his ...

29 Tammi 20241h 39min

SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

Jon Cardwell is back on to talk about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette’ in Fran...

27 Tammi 20241h 9min

EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finge...

22 Tammi 20242h 44min

EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids

EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids

James Pearson is one of the world’s best trad climbers. We discussed a 15-year-old controversy that nearly ended his career, how meeting his wife Caroline saved him, climbing his first 9a after learni...

15 Tammi 20243h 26min

EP 200: Brooke Raboutou —  An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends

EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends

Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for comp...

8 Tammi 20241h 54min

EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will ...

18 Joulu 20233h 1min

EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel

EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel

Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned ...

11 Joulu 20232h 53min

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