EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing

EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytis

Nuggets:

0:05:26 – Exhales and accents

0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco

0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume

0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font

0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain

0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining

0:25:36 – ‘The End’ 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno

0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time

0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool’ 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades

0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty

0:41:01 – Mattias’ 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever

0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful

0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades

0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project

1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move

1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos

1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing

1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger

1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline’ 7C+

1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common

1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now

1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega

1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow’ on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip

1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed

1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list

1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life

1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability

1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?

1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare

1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber

1:57:46 – Wobblers

2:03:34 – Ethan’s punt on ‘Rodan’ 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven

2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness

2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants

2:11:21 – V14 goals

2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties

Jaksot(385)

Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance

Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance

What if you could eat the healthiest meat on the planet while helping the environment? Jake Muise is the CEO and founder of Maui Nui Venison, and joins me to talk about sustainable food and the future...

1 Heinä 20251h 15min

EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young

EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young

Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese professional climber and a living legend. We talked about visualizing his onsight attempt on The Salathe, channeling support into power, Daniel Woods, Mount Kinabalu, Japan...

23 Kesä 20251h 57min

Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living

Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living

Eric Edmeades is often referred to as the “Indiana Jones” of the professional speaking world. He has been traveling to Africa to visit the Hadza, one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer groups, sinc...

16 Kesä 20252h 23min

EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun

EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun

Seneida Biendarra is the 2023 US National Champion in the women’s B2 (severely blind) category. We talked about losing her vision as a teenager, her current visual experience, creating mental maps of ...

9 Kesä 20252h 31min

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades

Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing lo...

27 Touko 20252h 3min

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens...

22 Touko 20251h 33min

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Justin Nault is a nutritional therapist who has helped thousands of clients escape our broken healthcare system and reclaim their health. We talked about his previous life as a professional musician a...

21 Touko 20253h 13min

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version o...

12 Touko 20252h 8min

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