EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing

EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

Support on Patreon:

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytis

Nuggets:

0:05:26 – Exhales and accents

0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco

0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume

0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font

0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain

0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining

0:25:36 – ‘The End’ 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno

0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time

0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool’ 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades

0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty

0:41:01 – Mattias’ 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever

0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful

0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades

0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project

1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move

1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos

1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing

1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger

1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline’ 7C+

1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common

1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now

1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega

1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow’ on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip

1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed

1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list

1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life

1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability

1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?

1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare

1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber

1:57:46 – Wobblers

2:03:34 – Ethan’s punt on ‘Rodan’ 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven

2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness

2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants

2:11:21 – V14 goals

2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties

Jaksot(380)

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens, his diet and sleep routines, tips for climbing at night, the pivotal moments that change our lives forever, and more.The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.comThe NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugBecome a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-bergeyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:24) – When to call it on a project(00:08:40) – Summer mode(00:10:27) – The Martin Keller approach(00:14:34) – Steven’s approach(00:17:53) – The outdoor gear(00:24:10) – Anthem(00:29:26) – Adapting to fingery climbing(00:33:26) – Diet(00:37:16) – Thoughts on keto & carnivore(00:42:38) – Still improving(00:43:59) – TB2(00:49:35) – More about diet(00:58:12) – Sleep(01:02:20) – Snacking & when he climbs(01:03:36) – Work & night climbing(01:09:08) – Light tips(01:11:49) – Tea & coffee(01:15:59) – Put in the time(01:18:56) – Suspend your disbelief(01:21:16) – Pivotal moments(01:28:59) – Wrap up

22 Touko 20251h 33min

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Justin Nault is a nutritional therapist who has helped thousands of clients escape our broken healthcare system and reclaim their health. We talked about his previous life as a professional musician and his own health journey, as well as the origins of allopathic medicine, seed oils and the hydroelectric dam analogy, what’s wrong with rodent studies and nutrition research, how to eat for optimal energy, leanness and performance, longevity in sports, setting 90 years of goals, the politicization of health, finding self-love, and much more. You can learn more about Justin at justinnault.com/stevenMaui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet)mauinuivenison.com/stevenNADS (Men's Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% off NADSHeadspace (Meditation App)Try it for Free for 14 DaysSupport Something Different on Patreonpatreon.com/somethingdiffpodTimestamps:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:04) – Justin’s life as a professional musician(00:08:10) – The costume(00:13:34) – Escapism(00:17:58) – Rocketman(00:20:18) – Collecting data from childhood(00:24:46) – Masochistic fitness(00:28:31) – Justin’s niece(00:33:52) – The origins of allopathic medicine(00:35:23) – The limitations of nutrition science(00:37:20) – Seed oils(00:41:44) – The hydroelectric dam analogy(00:46:38) – PUFAs, Omega-6s, & Omega-3s(00:48:31) – Hyperphysiological doses, & fat loss(00:54:37) – A cheap way to check your metabolic rate(00:56:17) – What happened to Primal Kitchen(01:01:24) – Capitalism is demand-driven(01:05:28) – Whose funnel am I in?(01:08:44) – Justin’s staple foods(01:10:59) – Cholesterol & thyroid health(01:19:21) – Carbs & saturated fat(01:24:20) – Calories, paleo, & metabolic rate(01:30:01) – Food is data(01:33:17) – Energy flux(01:38:06) – No more sugar cravings(01:41:17) – Architect of freedom(01:45:45) – Thyroid, carb sources, & dairy(01:49:11) – Fiber & blood glucose(01:50:16) – Sugar(01:57:07) – Fructose & fruit juice(01:59:24) – Rodent studies & nutrition research(02:04:41) – The illusion of authority(02:10:07) – The politicization of health(02:13:56) – Covid(02:21:56) – A journey of self-love(02:33:44) – Psychadelics & non-duality(02:37:46) – Is it working(02:45:07) – Top 5 daily prometabolic habits(02:48:49) – Equatorial living(02:51:33) – Leanness & performance(03:00:54) – Longevity in sports(03:03:16) – Justin’s athletic life(03:05:32) – 90 years of goals(03:08:05) – Where to find Justin

21 Touko 20253h 13min

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version of yourself, his ideal training week, recovery tips, cardio, his optimistic view of climbing media, his goal to be intentional in all things, projecting tactics, hard projects in WA and Chile, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.The GRINDS Program:thenuggetclimbing.comEnter your email to get a free PDF and log sheetMad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/facundo-langbehnNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – Breakfast & coffee(00:03:58) – Expression & language(00:06:39) – Climbing background(00:11:28) – Work(00:16:34) – Moving to Seattle(00:19:02) – Growing up in Chile(00:24:38) – Why(00:45:16) – The mental battle(00:51:12) – Exposure to hard boulders(00:55:00) – Hard projects in WA & Chile(00:57:48) – Scarcity & value(01:02:10) – Childhood(01:08:00) – Fast-paced society(01:10:28) – The character behind climbers(01:12:13) – Better storytelling(01:20:21) – Intentional(01:24:53) – My approach to improving(01:29:24) – Facundo’s approach to improving(01:35:35) – Projecting tactics(01:37:56) – Long careers(01:40:38) – Always peaking(01:44:05) – Facu’s ideal training week(01:51:15) – Recovery & cardio(01:59:02) – Best version all around(02:00:50) – Intentional continued(02:05:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

12 Touko 20252h 8min

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Old friends and climbing partners Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt join me for a nice, long listener Q&A and chat. This one was a blast.You can listen to the full thing by becoming a paid subscriber on Apple Podcasts or Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

9 Touko 202538min

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and website. We talked about his life before the road, the vehicles he’s lived in, the best budget options he’s found, essentials for $100 or less, heating systems, bathroom options, cooking tips, and much more.GSI Outdoors:Camp StovesGoSun:Solar CoolersOutdoorsy:Rent a Van or RV for your next adventure!Ignik:Sustainable Campfire Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bob-wellsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:39) – Bob’s background (00:04:36) – Life before the road(00:05:38) – Bob’s shed(00:09:39) – Big city vanlife  (00:15:38) – Full time vanlife(00:17:39) – First van(00:21:37) – Emergency bucket  (00:23:41) – City-specific van tips (00:29:40) – Progression of vehicles  (00:34:40) – Freedom on the road(00:38:40) – Most impressive setup(00:40:41) – Clever and unique setup(00:44:52) – Bang for your buck(00:47:57) – Avoiding burnout (00:51:52) – Dogs(00:55:56) – Bob’s future(00:58:57) – Practical advice for road life  (01:05:53) – $100 or less essentials (01:07:54) – Heating systems (01:10:55) – Van or truck tent canopy (01:15:45) – Longest trip in one week(01:17:43) – Beauty of Moab (01:19:43) – Where to find Bob

28 Huhti 20251h 21min

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven’t seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 vs. outdoor bouldering, dream lines, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sean-houchins-mccallumNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:16) – Unsynthesized(00:04:50) – Sending every classic in 4 months(00:07:02) – Limit projects every day(00:09:31) – Sean vs. Noah Wheeler(00:11:36) – Is boarding its own sport?(00:16:04) – Becoming a board climber(00:17:30) – Sean’s ultimate board proj (You’ve Seen the Butcher at 65º)(00:19:10) – Board tactics(00:21:28) – Why aren’t there V15s or harder on boards?(00:26:14) – Getting outside(00:27:45) – Sean’s dimensions(00:29:24) – Sean’s warms up(00:34:07) – A typical week(00:36:52) – Sean’s projecting tactics(00:40:42) – 2 months on(00:46:52) – Does Sean train his strengths?(00:54:20) – Sean’s weaknesses(00:57:19) – The Spray layout(01:01:41) – TB1 vs. TB2(01:02:49) – Mirroring climbs & the leaderboard(01:07:05) – Intimidating holds on the TB2(01:10:19) – Go-to shoes(01:11:36) – Working & setting(01:17:11) – Outdoor goals(01:18:55) – Jumping up 2 grades after changing his diet(01:26:52) – TB2 vs. outside(01:31:57) – New board companies(01:34:59) – Sport climbing feature(01:38:59) – Dream lines(01:40:17) – Rapid fire questions(02:00:53) – How Low Can You Go?

21 Huhti 20252h 8min

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope can be negative, finding true acceptance, meditation, Alexander Technique and  Feldenkrais Method, finding happiness within, why love is the key to life, and three sentences she tells herself every day. You can work with Tess at motion-coaching.beThe NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugTindeq 👉 tindeq.com  (Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order)The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.comBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tess-driessensNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – The North Pole(00:16:14) – Gymnastics & childhood(00:22:38) – Early climbing(00:24:32) – 5 herniated discs(00:41:16) – Developing chronic pain(00:46:57) – Pain drugs & alternatives(00:52:39) – Hope, expectations, & acceptance(00:57:24) – A healing sabatical(01:05:01) – A healing sabatical continued(01:10:20) – Meditation(01:12:38) – Alexander Technique & Feldenkrais Method(01:18:37) – Tools for chronic pain(01:27:39) – Happiness within(01:33:55) – Meditation continued(01:38:45) – Love(01:42:34) – Tess’ three sentences(01:48:52) – Long covid(01:58:20) – Sending 8a without physical training(02:02:53) – Visualization(02:09:24) – Low-load training(02:11:06) – Adaptability & taking control(02:12:41) – Recovery tips(02:17:55) – Investing in relaxation(02:19:55) – Heart coherence breathing(02:26:10) – Quotes & gratitude(02:30:31) – Closing questions

15 Huhti 20252h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalieNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:03) – Keith’s background(00:10:05) – Natalie’s background(00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study(00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs”(00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective(00:22:41) – Exciting new studies(00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”?(00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol?(00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness(00:57:00) – Recommendations(01:06:03) – A cautionary tale(01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics(01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?(01:15:42) – Summary(01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies(01:19:25) – Wrap up

7 Huhti 20251h 23min

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