EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way

EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way

Josh Champion is an MD and elite boulderer based in Portland, Oregon. Josh and I hung out in 2017 during my infamous Bishop trip. Since then he moved to Colorado for residency, got even stronger, and then quit climbing shortly after sending his first three V13s. We talked about why he quit for three years, how he improved his relationship with climbing, helpful books, building Just Beta, and much more!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-champion

Nuggets:

0:00:00 – Intro/Ads

0:03:51 – Intermittent fasting, Josh’s “salad”, and diet soda in the morning

0:07:15 – Reminiscing about the 2017 Bishop trip, Josh’s send of Mandala, and clarifying the timing of my journey with disordered eating

0:12:07 – What happened to Josh after the 2017 trip, and moving to Colorado for residency

0:17:55 – How the pandemic affected his work, and sending his first three V13s

0:19:28 – Putting V13 on a pedestal

0:23:51 – Expectations vs reality of achieving a goal

0:26:21 – Delayed gratification vs learning how to enjoy the process

0:27:52 – Josh and I explore what drives us to pursue goals, and pure inspiration vs seeking approval from others

0:33:41 – Why Josh quit climbing

0:36:16 – What it felt like to quit, filling the gap, and creating BetaCache

0:42:35 – Finding a new physical outlet, and his mindset shift after being away from climbing

0:47:27 – Discovering who you are without climbing

0:49:34 – Not missing climbing, Josh’s antagonistic climbing friendship, and being free from comparison

0:52:48 – What brought him back to climbing

0:55:41 – Working on his relationship with climbing

1:01:14 – The Zen of Climbing

1:07:22 – Inner balance and friction

1:09:48 – Feeling cautious but optimistic, and shifting the emphasis

1:11:52 – Trying Woods Climb in Red Rocks, and plans for his upcoming trip to Moe’s Valley

1:16:34 – Meeting Jonathan Siegrist, starting to climb because we enjoyed it, and when that shifted for Josh

1:23:43 – Seeking challenge is healthy until you start putting numbers on it

1:27:44 – Treating climbing like a martial art or a craft

1:30:28 – Finding satisfaction and accomplishment in the process

1:31:44 – Josh’s thoughts about trying hard projects in the future

1:34:29 – Letting go of needing to check climbs off the list

1:37:27 – What inner work looks like, and Josh’s claim to fame

1:41:31 – The value of learning lessons the hard way

1:44:19 – Realizing you are not alone

1:45:54 – Why Josh created BetaCache, and the updated version JustBeta.net

Jaksot(383)

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity...

24 Helmi 20252h

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic an...

17 Helmi 20252h 30min

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journ...

10 Helmi 20252h 1min

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushi...

5 Helmi 202538min

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of t...

3 Helmi 20251h 45min

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoeche...

27 Tammi 20253h 8min

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard ...

20 Tammi 20252h 23min

EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s

EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s

Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, gett...

13 Tammi 20253h 55min

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