Hodinkee Radio: Watches & Wonders 2024 | Day 4: The Editors Debrief After The Week In Geneva

For this episode, James is hosting and is joined by Malaika and TanTan to chat about the last year in watches. After a quick sidebar about the competition between the English supper and Thanksgiving dinner, the trio gets into the trends, major releases, and favorite moments from 2024. From the "mini" trend, solid additions from Omega, Lange, Hermes, and more to the search for fun in the hobby and, finally, a chat about the recent collab between Audemars Piguet and the artist KAWS.We'll be back next week with a similar format but with a panel including Rich Fordon and Mark Kauzlarich. Thanks for listening!4:20 Mini! (AP) (Cartier) (Longines) 5:34 Berneron Mirage11:00 Special Link From Bruichladdich12:56 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Pro White Dial (A Week On The Wrist)16:31 3861 Omega Speedmaster25:40 Doxa Sub 20027:07 Hermes Cut (In-Depth)30:00 Tantan's Habring Erwin "Tuxedo"31:55 Momentum UDT32:37 Unimatic U5S MOMA34:30 Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty35:04 Keith Haring Swatch36:58 Timex Japan 8-Laps39:14 Lange Datograph Handwerkskunst39:22 Lange 1 Anniversary Onyx40:40 AP x Kaws Concept Tourbillon "Companion"

6 Joulu 202445min

We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn). For this episode, we are joined by Tania Edwards, Co-Founder of Collectability and former employee of Patek Philippe. Her extensive knowledge of Patek, as well as her many years of experience in its marketing department, make her a bona fide expert when it comes to the brand's heritage, evolution, and watchmaking.Tania and Tony discuss Patek's history through the '80s and '90s, how the brand's identity and marketing campaigns have evolved to today, and her thoughts on vintage and modern Patek watches (including the Cubitus Collection, of course).0:05 Hodinkee Insurance00:33 Tania Edwards00:34 Collectability6:30 ETA Delirium quartz caliber7:14 Caliber 89 and the 150th of Patek 12:50 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 14:01 Patek Philippe Twenty-4 15:09 Patek Philippe Aquanaut 16:40 The Patek Philippe Ads  25:30 Patek Philippe Advanced Research 29:39 Patek Philippe Ref. 96 30:34 The Patek Philippe Neptune 33:08 The Patek Philippe Cubitus36:35 Patek Calatrava 4860 37:47 Patek Philippe 130 Chronograph 38:37 Patek Philippe 3940 39:25 Patek Philippe 7000 Minute Repeater40:23 Patek Philippe 3848 Ellipse 51:60 Collectability Podcast

13 Marras 202454min

Pierre Biver of J.C. Biver, Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, and Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches join me in three separate conversations to provide a holistic overview of stone dials.Over the past few years, stone dials have seemingly popped up everywhere. More modern brands are making them. At the same time, vintage examples have become more collectible and jumped in price considerably.But stone dials are still a relatively undiscovered corner of watch collecting. They're not well understood on the vintage or modern side.So I wanted to cover them on Hodinkee. Typically, we'd do this by talking to a few experts and synthesizing those conversations into an in-depth article. But I decided to try something different this time around, hitting record on three conversations to learn about modern stone dial production, vintage collecting, and everything in between.Our first conversation is with Pierre Biver, who started J.C. Biver with his father Jean-Claude Biver last year. Each of their releases has included a stone dial option. Then, I talk with two dealers. First is Jasper Lijfering of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, a vintage dealer and trained gemologist. Second is Erik Gustafson of Hairspring Watches, who has helped grow the scholarship around stone dials. We dive into the recent discussion around Rolex "obsidian" dials; as we'll discuss, this name isn't quite accurate and it shows how much there still is to learn about vintage watches, and stone dials in particular.I hope all three conversations give you a better understanding of stone dials. Note that I've tried to include links to an example of all stone dials mentioned in the audio, so check the show notes below if you're not sure what a particular stone looks like.Show Notes1:23: Hands-On: The Biver Automatique2:14: Hands-On: The Biver Carillon Tourbillon19:30: Hands-On: The Berneron Mirage Realizes Its Creator's Uncompromising Vision24:00: Hands-On: Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Limited Editions31:54: Amsterdam Vintage Watches33:35: In-Depth: How Piaget Defined The 1970s, And How It Can Do The Same Today38:15: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Malachite dial39:16: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Coral dial41:53: Dr. Helmut Crott's The Dial42:45: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with black Onyx dial43:15: Example of a Piaget Protocole with Lapis Lazuli dial43:28: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Tiger's Eye dial45:20: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Green Jasper dial46:30: Example of a Rolex Day-Date with Pyramid Onyx dial46:55: Jasper's white gold Datejust with Red Jasper dial52:05: Rolex Day-Date with 'Bloodstone' dial54:10: Hairspring Watches56:00: Hairspring's post about the "Obsidian" dial Rolex Datejust58:45: Recapping The Glamorous Day-Date Sale At Phillips (That Time The Average Day-Date Sold For $110,580)1:00:00: "Obsidian" Rolex at Phillips in 20201:02:30: Rolex Day-Date Khanjar with "Obsidian" dial that Loupe This described as "although it looks like an onyx stone dial, after closer inspection it appears the dial is a painted/ lacquer dial."1:11:37: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Brings Back The Starwheel (Live Pics) (including pics of a tropical Starwheel)1:11:58: Rolex Daytona ref. 116500 "Lemon" dial

6 Marras 20241h 16min

For this special episode, we're joined by Andres Nicholls. Andres is a dedicated collector of all things Porsche and Porsche Design. Andres' passion for the brand runs deep – he bought his first Porsche Design Chronograph 1 way back in 2000. As a trained designer and architect, he also brings a different perspective to the way in which Porsche Design's watches blend design and complications. Along the way, James and Andres also talk about some of their favorite Porsche cars, and how the brand continues to set itself apart. Andres is a senior partner and creative director for the creative agency Prophet.Thanks to Porsche Design for its support of Hodinkee Radio.Show NotesRelated coverage of Porsche Design:Also watch our first episode featuring Porsche Design with Drew Peterson.In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche DesignWatching Movies: Why Tom Cruise's Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The YearTalking Watches With Ferdi PorscheHands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 Editionhttps://www.hodinkee.com/articles/take-to-the-ice-with-the-new-porsche-design-chronograph-1-gp-2023-editionThe Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee

30 Loka 202438min

There's no one quite like Max Büsser in the watch world. Each of his creations is so innovative, unique, and cutting edge, but also all clearly from the same mind, challenging conventions of watchmaking.Büsser got his start in watches working with Jaeger-LeCoultre during the rebirth of traditional watchmaking in the 1990s. From there, he joined Harry Winston and launched its Opus series, collaborating with independent watchmakers like FP Journe.Then, in 2005 he started his own brand, Max Busser and Friends. His Horological and Legacy Machines are like no other watches, pieces of kinetic art. On today's episode, Max joined Ben and me to talk about his entire career, including his nearly 20 years at MB&F. We also talk about the current state of innovation and creativity in the watch industry. We also discuss the recent investment in MB&F by Chanel, and what's next for him and MB&f. Without further ado, enjoy this conversation with Max and Ben.Show Notes3:00: Introducing the MB&F LM101The MB&F LM101 Limited Edition for Hodinkee3:39: Hands-On With the MB&F HM2 (2013)19:00: Hands-On With the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph (2023)20:30: A Week On The Wrist: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Sector Dial (2017)24:33: Introducing: The Grande Lange 1 Lumen (2012)31:58: In-Depth: The Classic Datograph36:27: Hands-On: MB&F's Horological Machine 11 'Architect' – A House For The Wrist36:33: Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.1S, Some Of The World's Best Horological Entertainment And So Much More

9 Loka 202455min

For this special episode, we're joined by Drew Peterson. Drew is a dedicated collector of the Porsche Design Chronograph 1, so he brought a portion of his collection to the Hodinkee office to chat with James Stacey. He takes us through the history and the evolution of the Chronograph 1, introduced in 1972. From Valjoux and Lemania calibers to the many military connections and everything in between, Drew is an absolute wealth of knowledge about the Chronograph 1 and Porsche Design. He also talks about the future of collecting the Chronograph 1 and a few of the mysteries that are still out there for collectors to solve.Finally, James and Drew finish by taking a look at the modern reissue of the Chronograph 1 and what the future holds for Porsche Design.Thanks to Porsche Design for its support of Hodinkee Radio.Show NotesRelated coverage of Porsche Design:In-Depth: A Detailed Look At The Incredible 40 Years Of Porsche DesignWatching Movies: Why Tom Cruise's Porsche Design, And A Vintage Rolex, Make 'Top Gun: Maverick' The Best Watch Movie Of The YearTalking Watches With Ferdi PorscheHands-On: Take To The Ice With The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 GP 2023 EditionThe Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee

30 Syys 202433min

The movement maker's Director of Innovation and Marketing discusses collecting chronographs, Sellita, what the Swiss watch industry can do better, and his new brand Albishorn. Show Notes1:46: Chronographs for Collectors4:30: In-Depth: Swatch Group Battles With COMCO Over ETA Movement Sales (2020)12:40: Hands-On: The Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière19:30: Possible Tornado Hits La Chaux-de-Fonds, Causing Significant Damage To The Area28:20: Sellita catalog from 202245:20: Albishorn Watches

25 Syys 202455min

We're back in the swing of things after an end-of-summer break from Hodinkee Radio. This week, James and Malaika join the show. We discuss some of our favorite recent releases from Zenith, Tudor, Hamilton, Chanel, and more. Then, we get into Malaika's recent in-depth article on Tiffany & Co.'s "untapped watchmaking potential." We explore the American retailer's long relationship with watches and watchmaking, and discuss the potential for revamping its watches in the wake of its 2021 acquisition by LVMH. Then, we have a Collecting Advice from a world-traveling free diver looking for a watch. Thanks as always for listening to Hodinkee Radio – we have some exciting guests lined up for the fall, so stay dialed into this feed.8:30: Zenith ladder bracelet for the Chronomaster Revival Safari and Shadow10:30: The Dubai Watch Club Zenith El Primero A384 (SJX)11:15: Zenith Chronomaster Revival Safari13:04: Just Because: Chanel Made A Watch with Headphones18:20: Introducing: Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz19:00: Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 'Blue' Boutique Edition20:08: A Week On The Wrist: Tudor Black Bay Heritage Chrono Blue23:16: Gold Tudor Prince Chronograph for Only Watch25:25: Hands-On: The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold27:30: In-Depth: Tiffany & Co.'s Untapped Watchmaking Potential31:45: The Tiffany & Co. CT60 Collection42:00: Introducing: The Marathon Navigator – Now With A Steel Case!42:58: Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200T43:48: Garmn Descent G144:26: Scurfa Diver One45:10: Benrus Type 1-C45:50: Halios Seaforth IV46:45: Introducing: Longines Hydroconquest GMT47:40: Hands-On: The Seiko Prospex SPB451 And SPB45349:10: Happenings: House Of Craft NYC | UBS x Hodinkee

18 Syys 202450min