Hodinkee Radio: Watches & Wonders 2024 | Day 4: The Editors Debrief After The Week In Geneva

My guests this week are Phil Toledano and Mike Nouveau.Phil is no stranger to Hodinkee, having been on Talking Watches and this podcast previously. He's an artist and photographer, bon vivant as well as a collector of all kinds of stuff, including watches. Most recently, he's the co-founder of Toledano & Chan, which just released its first watch, the brutalist B1. He's also a frequent undercard on Mike's social videos.Mike is a vintage dealer and the king of WatchTok – he's got hundreds of thousands of followers across social media who tune into his daily updates on life as a dealer in New York City. He has, in particular, become known for his love and expertise in vintage Cartier, which we certainly talk about.The odd couple are friends and collectors, and they just love watches. We talk about vintage Cartier, Breitling, Patek, and pre-Daytonas, as well as the first release from Toledano's new brand. Along the way, we all get in a few friendly jabs.Show Notes00:01: Mike Nouveau on TikTok and Instagram Phil Toledano on Instagram1:00: Introducing: The B/1 Is An Audaciously Designed Watch By Newcomer Toledano & Chan1:21: Phil on Hodinkee Radio in 20202:30: Hands-On: Cartier Brings Back The Tortue – Monopusher Chronograph And All11:05: Phil's rectangular Patek with blue sapphire numerals11:25: Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Audacious Design Of 1970s Patek11:56: Mike and Phil picking up the Rolex Zerograph15:30: Mike's Patek 96 with Breguet numerals16:44: The steel Patek 96 that sold at Antiquorum in May19:45: Auctions: Sylvester Stallone's Grandmaster Chime Sells For $5.4 Million, Evaluating Vintage Patek Philippe Condition, And More From New York23:52: Talking Watches with Phil Toledano

26 Kesä 202452min

My guests this week are watchmaker Dr. Rebecca Struthers and Lewis Heath, founder of AnOrdain. The two are friends and collaborators, so it was fun to get them both together for a conversation about watchmaking in the U.K., what they're up to, and what's next. Lewis Heath founded AnOrdain in 2015. Since then, the Scottish brand has become known for its beautifully crafted enamel dials. He founded the company after working as a product designer and deciding he wanted to make something closer to home. Dr. Rebecca Struthers is a watchmaker and co-founder of Struthers Watchmakers along with her husband and fellow watchmaker, Craig. The two began their business as restorers, but after realizing they'd made pretty much every other component for other people's watches, decided to build their own. This was the beginning of Project 248, their effort to build their own in-house movement. Struthers also became the first watchmaker in the United Kingdom to complete a Ph.D program, making her the country's first "watch doctor." Show Notes3:00: Lewis' Dubley & Schaldenbrand watch4:59: Rebecca's HSNY talk on Dutch forgeries8:38: Hands on Time, by Rebecca Struthers (publisher page); read the Hodinkee review here9:16: Value Proposition: The AnOrdain Model 19:50: AnOrdain and Struthers Project 248 enamel dials14:04: Hands-On: AnOrdain Model 1 'Fume'33:45: British Horological Institute58:00: Rebecca's Movado Weems watch

19 Kesä 202458min

My guest this week is Sylvain Berneron. Sylvain is a designer and the founder of one of the most exciting young watch brands. Before starting Berneron, Sylvain spent five years at Breitling, where he eventually became Chief Product Officer. There, he helped completely revamp and build a product portfolio after the brand’s acquisition. Before Breitling, he was also a watch designer at Richemont, working on projects for its portfolio of brands.He got his start designing motorcycles and cars, most notably for brands like BMW and Ducati.Now, Berneron is leading his own brand, and his first watch, the Mirage, makes a statement. It’s an asymmetrical gold wristwatch that takes its shape from its caliber.More important than his background though, he’s one of the most thoughtful guys around.Sylvain and I talk about his career, what watch design is missing, and about building his brand and developing the Mirage.Show Notes1:11: Berneron's website1:30: One To Watch: Breitling Designer Sylvain Berneron Sets Out To Explore Asymmetry On His Own21:30: Breitling Sells Controlling Stake To CVC Capital Partners For $870 Million39:00: Bulgari Sets A New Record (Again) For The World's Thinnest Watch With The New Octo Finissimo Ultra1:01:54: After A Decade Working For Big Names, Simon Brette Steps Out On His Own1:02:00: In Conversation With Xhevdet Rexhepi, Independent Watchmaking's Next Big Thing

12 Kesä 20241h 5min

This week, we discuss a few new releases on our desks from VPC and Anoma which leads to a short discussion of the growing small-brand scene. We also jump into our thoughts on the new Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02. Finally, we talk about brand exhibits and spend some time chatting about a recent visit to the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, and what made our jaws drop at the mecca of museums.Show Notes2:50: Hands-On: The VPC Type 37HW3:00: Series on Fratello about the development of VPC7:30: Anoma Watch (hands-on review to come)8:20: Amida Digitrend11:40: The B/1 Is An Audaciously Designed Watch By Newcomer Toledano & Chan15:05: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master0217:25: AP Chronicles on the original ref. 515925:00: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak29:00: AP Chronicles 20mm Royal Oak from 199737:35: Patek Philippe Museum44:30: Raúl Pagès Turns The Page With His Old-School Régulateur à Détente45:30: Steel Patek Philippe 96 Sector Dial at Sotheby's46:30: The 'Imperial Patek Philippe' Owned By The Last Emperor Of China Sells For $6.2 Million47:45: Buying, Selling, Collecting: A Rare, Complicated Patek Calatrava You Might Not Have Known About Is Coming Up For Auction

6 Kesä 202448min

In this week's episode, I'm running the three-man weave with Ben and James. I gave the guys a bit of homework before we recorded. Last month, Ben mentioned in his review of the Rolex "Le Mans" Daytona that maybe we should do "A Week On (An Owner's) Wrist" reviews every once in a while. Talking about – and reviewing – watches that we've recently acquired. I thought it was a pretty good idea (nice, Ben!), so I called him up and said "Let's do it on the pod!" Of course, I had to get James in the mix as well to keep us grounded in reality (and Seiko). So each of us came ready to talk about two watches we've recently acquired. Why we bought them, what we like about them, and what we'd change if we could. We cover basically the entire range of watches, from Swatch to Seiko to maybe the hottest indie around. 1:30: Financial Times Luxury Live Summit3:00: In-Depth: Marc Newson Opens Up About Ikepod, The Pathbreaking '90s Watch Brand That's Cool All Over Again; Marc Newson Hourglass for Hodinkee6:30: Ben's Watch Spotting at the Universal Geneve Meetup That Tony Definitely Read7:50: Wind Vintage Universal Geneve Film Compax9:40: Hands-On With (That Other) Universal Genve Film Compax10:50: Ben's A Week On The Wrist With The Le Mans Daytona14:50: James' A Week On The Wrist With The Tudor Pelagos 3916:40: Blancpain x Swatch Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms21:50: The Unimatic Carbon Limited Editions for Hodinkee23:45: Hodinkee's first capsule collection with Unimatic24:35: The 36mm Unimatic Modello Cinque24:50: The Unimatic x Massena Lab Modello Cinque26:10: Introducing: Rexhep Rexhepi Returns With A Sequel To The Award-Winning Chronomètre Contemporain27:00: Ben's November 2023 Photo Report from Geneva29:28: In-Depth: Gruebel Forsey Signature 132:15: Only Watch 2024 Auction Results34:00: Hands-On: Swatch Adds Six Watches To Its Neon Collection Just In Time For Summer38:10: Watches in the Wild: Thailand: Episode 138:45: Hodinkee's 10 Favorite Seikos of All Time40:40: James' Review Of The New Seiko "24MAS" Divers42:58: James' A Week On The Wrist With the Seiko SPB14344:30: Cartier Brings Back The Tortue, Monopusher And All47:00: A Collector's Guide To 1970s Cartier Watches

30 Touko 202452min

Today on the podcast I'm thrilled to have two legendary collectors and dealers join me, Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg.Of course, Eric is no stranger to Hodinkee, having appeared on the site, Talking Watches, and this podcast. He got his start as a vintage watch dealer, soon founding 10Past10 back in 2005. Most recently, he co-founded the online auction site Loupe This in 2021. He's since become known for his expertise in Rolex, Cartier, and pretty much all things vintage.Eric's Loupe This co-founder is today's other guest, Justin Gruenberg. Justin is a second-generation watch and jewelry dealer from L.A., and since joining the family business he also founded the vintage dealer The Keystone. Justin is widely admired for his wide taste that runs the gamut from vintage to modern, sport to dress, and everything in between.Both of these guys have a keen eye, great taste, and extensive about watches. In today's episode, we discuss the most recent auctions and the market more broadly, what dealers and auctions can do better, and get into the nitty-gritty with vintage Patek, Rolex, and Cartier. We also have a little fun – I get both of the guys to tell me what watch they'd love to snag from the other's collection.Thanks as always for listening, and make sure to hit the show notes to follow along with some of the watches we discuss. 00:01: Loupe This3:00: The Keystone4:40: Acquired LVMH podcast8:00: Seven Things I Learned From The Spring Watch Sales And Trying To Make Sense Of The Up-And-Down 'Market'8:40: Patek 1463 at Antiquorum Geneva that sold for CHF 293,75010:10: Christie's Geneva Watch Auction Postponed Until Tuesday Due To Cyberattack; Potential Bidders Encouraged To Contact Christie's11:20: Hands-On With Formula 1 Legend Michael Schumacher's Watches Ahead Of The Christie's Sale12:10: Unique Patek Philippe Steel Sonnerie Minute Repeater Sells For $17.3 Million In Return Of Only Watch15:50: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime For Only Watch 2019 Sells For CHF 31 Million, Becoming The Most Expensive Watch In The World23:30: The Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Sells For CHF 9.5 Million At Only Watch 202132:10: AP Chronicles35:20: The "gold albino" Rolex Daytona 6265 that passed at Phillips35:30: A Close Encounter With Just The Third Of Its Kind: Hands-On With The Legendary Albino Daytona41:10: Eric's "PSA" Instagram post about fake Rolex stone dials49:10: Dealers Alessandro "Mr. A" and Peluco on Instagram52:10: Justin's Decagonal Cartier London watch52:50: Eric's Cartier London Tank Cintree56:50: Jay-Z wearing the Rolex "modified" by "Franck Muller", and Franck Muller's Rolex school watch as seen in an old auction catalog1:01: Hermes Acquired podcast

22 Touko 20241h

In today's episode, I tapped our style editor Malaika Crawford, client advisor Rich Fordon, and video producer Jonathan McWhorter on for a Q&A. Some of the questions we take on:What other brands should release a Cartier Privé-style collection that taps into its heritage, and which brands should not;Our thoughts on the TAG Heuer x KITH Formula 1;Whether brands and stylists have ruined watch spotting at red carpet events like the Met Gala;Finally, Since Rich was on his way to Geneva for the spring auctions, we talk about how to navigate the sometimes scary world of auctions.Before we get to the Q&A, we also touched on our 21st Century Fantasy Draft from a few weeks ago. We announce the winner, and then Rich and Malaika tell us about all the amazing watches from the past 24 years we should've included. 2:40: 21st Century Fantasy Draft5:11: Introducing: Richard Mille RM07-015:20: Introducing: The Richard Mille RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal11:00: The modern Movado Super Sub Sea12:45: Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Its Second Vintage Capsule Of 'The Collectibles'13:23: Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Updates Its Complicated Duometre Collection With A Trio Of New Watches14:53: Hands-On: With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph15:03: Ben Clymer on His JLC Tribute to 1931 Reverso15:20: Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph19:26: What This Vintage Cartier Tank Cintrée Tells Us About The Future Of Restoration20:35: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph21:25: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Brings Back The Starwheel23:10: Only Watch Auction Results 202431:40: Introducing: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith: A '90s Icon Revived (Live Pics)40:20: Watch Spotting At The Met Gala 202441:00: Hollywood Pay-To-Play Has Drained The Fun Out Of The Red Carpet

15 Touko 202450min

This week, we're back talking auction action ahead of the upcoming Geneva spring auction season. To do so, we've invited two of our biggest auction lovers – Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer and editor/photographer extraordinaire Mark Kauzlarich – to talk about what they're watching in the upcoming weeks.2:20: Rough Diamonds3:00: Monaco Legend Group Spring 2024 Auction4:00: Rolex 4113 Record, Piaget6:30: Record-setting Datejust9:00: Talking Watches with John Goldberger (with the "cheese knife" Rolex 4113 moment)12:45: Patek Philippe ref. 6301A Sonnerie for Only Watch13:15: The Only Watch Auction Delay and Reschedule to May 202414:45: Only Watch Patek Grandmaster Chime Record15:45: The "Paul Newman" Paul Newman Daytona Record  and Henry Graves Supercomplication.20:20: Introducing Rexhep Rexhepi for Only Watch 2023 and Petermann Bédat and Theo Auffret for Only Watch21:50: In-Depth with Furlan Marri's Secular Perpetual Calendar for Only Watch22:15: Christie's Rare Watches Including the Property of Michael Schumacher; AP Royal Oak Chronograph; F.P. Journe Vagabondage23:45: Michael Schumacher's Daytonas (Gold and Paul Newman);27:00: F.P. Journe Ruthenium Collection Tourbillon; Ruthenium Box28:30: Christie's Black Dial Patek 2526 in Rose Gold32:15: Phillips Patek ref. 257734:10: Phillips 1931 Cartier Tank à Guichets and Cartier "Lozenge"34:45: Gatherings A Special Cartier Roundtable Discussion At Watches & Wonders In Geneva34:45: Gatherings A Special Cartier Roundtable Discussion At Watches & Wonders In Geneva35:40: Cartier London Cintrée with Blue Dial and Paris Cintrée at Phillips36:00: Cartier Reverso at Phillips (and other auctions) and the Patek 5975J (also at multiple auction houses)37:40: Patek 2523 at Antiquorum, Christie's Hong Kong, and Phillips38:15: Patek 605 HU Pocket Watch at Antiquorum with CHF 1,000,000 to 2,000,000 estimate39:20: Tony's Pick: Franck Muller at Sotheby's40:45: Ben's Picks: Tiffany Patek ref. 2499 at Sotheby's and Full Set 2499 at Christie's41:20: Mark and Ben's Pick: Steel Lange 1

1 Touko 202444min