EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!

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Watch the Video Interview:

EP 215: Nathan Williams — Uncut Video!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathan-williams

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:50) – Gaming

(00:05:13) – Overview

(00:06:52) – The luckiest intro to climbing

(00:11:12) – His first V10

(00:15:20) – Making the jump to V15/16

(00:17:38) – ‘Sleepwalker’

(00:19:53) – The birth of ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’

(00:21:45) – Getting obsessed

(00:25:31) – What makes a good session

(00:28:02) – Staying psyched after bad days

(00:30:51) – Friction control

(00:34:46) – Bad tactics

(00:39:15) – Feeling strong

(00:41:17) – No regrets

(00:45:27) – ROTS as a board climb

(00:50:34) – Training for ROTS

(00:56:33) – Nathan’s one-arm hang workout

(01:01:51) – One-arm hangs vs. lifting from the ground

(01:05:43) – More finger training

(01:09:04) – Micros and finger anatomy

(01:11:47) – Nathan’s climbing style

(01:24:22) – Static projects

(01:26:01) – Feats of strength

(01:28:08) – Climbing inspiration

(01:29:45) – Excuses and explanations

(01:37:14) – Skin products

(01:41:31) – Why he took a year off

(01:44:34) – Not forcing it

(01:47:38) – Working with a coach

(01:51:22) – Life balance

(01:54:47) – Climbing with a purpose

(01:59:28) – Upcoming goals and plans

(02:02:01) – More ROTS

(02:11:33) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons

Jaksot(385)

EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

This is part 2 of my conversation with Mikey Schaefer. We talked about climbing as a finite resource, footwear for big walls, rope tricks, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system for team-free ascents, climbi...

25 Touko 202044min

EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

Mikey Schaefer is a photographer, filmmaker, and an all-around climber whose accomplishments range from dangerous first ascents in the mountains to 5.13+ big walls, 5.14 sport climbs, and V10 boulders...

18 Touko 20201h 53min

EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy

EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy

Drew Ruana is a 20-year-old boulderer, sport climber, and competition climber who is quickly becoming one of the best rock climbers in the world. We talked about climbing ‘Sleepwalker’ (his first V16)...

11 Touko 20201h 34min

EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love

EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love

Tara Kerzhner is an award-winning photographer, cinematographer, and accomplished rock climber. We talked about being creative while stuck at home, the importance of shooting what you love, balancing ...

4 Touko 20201h 14min

EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers

EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers

Katie Lambert is an elite rock climber in just about every discipline of the sport. She is also a contributing author for Climbing Magazine, owns a business, and has a master’s in nutrition. We talked...

27 Huhti 20201h 35min

EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current traini...

20 Huhti 20201h 57min

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

Bill Ramsey is a professor of philosophy at the University of Nevada Las Vegas and at 59-years-old, still climbs 5.14. We talked about his coffee addiction, his legendary training days and how he uses...

13 Huhti 20201h 40min

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

Mike Doyle is an elite-level rock climber who balances climbing with a career as a software engineer. He also has a long history of competition climbing and coaching. We talked about lessons learned f...

6 Huhti 20201h 39min

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