EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!

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Watch the Video Interview:

EP 215: Nathan Williams — Uncut Video!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathan-williams

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:50) – Gaming

(00:05:13) – Overview

(00:06:52) – The luckiest intro to climbing

(00:11:12) – His first V10

(00:15:20) – Making the jump to V15/16

(00:17:38) – ‘Sleepwalker’

(00:19:53) – The birth of ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’

(00:21:45) – Getting obsessed

(00:25:31) – What makes a good session

(00:28:02) – Staying psyched after bad days

(00:30:51) – Friction control

(00:34:46) – Bad tactics

(00:39:15) – Feeling strong

(00:41:17) – No regrets

(00:45:27) – ROTS as a board climb

(00:50:34) – Training for ROTS

(00:56:33) – Nathan’s one-arm hang workout

(01:01:51) – One-arm hangs vs. lifting from the ground

(01:05:43) – More finger training

(01:09:04) – Micros and finger anatomy

(01:11:47) – Nathan’s climbing style

(01:24:22) – Static projects

(01:26:01) – Feats of strength

(01:28:08) – Climbing inspiration

(01:29:45) – Excuses and explanations

(01:37:14) – Skin products

(01:41:31) – Why he took a year off

(01:44:34) – Not forcing it

(01:47:38) – Working with a coach

(01:51:22) – Life balance

(01:54:47) – Climbing with a purpose

(01:59:28) – Upcoming goals and plans

(02:02:01) – More ROTS

(02:11:33) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons

Jaksot(385)

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

Shanjean Lee is an orthopedic surgeon and a badass climber whose accomplishments range from V10 boulders, to 5.14a sport, to 5.13+ trad and multi-pitch climbs. We talked about how SJ trained to climb ...

30 Maalis 20201h 58min

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for ...

23 Maalis 20201h 45min

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent...

16 Maalis 202058min

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stin...

24 Helmi 20201h 41min

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me us...

17 Helmi 20201h 38min

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face’ in ...

10 Helmi 20202h 17min

EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

William Woodward (@wheretowillie on Instagram) is a climber, skier, and professional travel photographer. We talked about the beginnings of ‘Where to Willie’, balancing work and passion, finding meani...

3 Helmi 20201h 27min

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

Chris Wright is a professional mountain guide who splits his time between guiding, skiing, and climbing some of the most remote peaks in the world. We talked about his recent team FA of Link Sar in Pa...

2 Helmi 20201h 33min

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