EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11

EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11

Mat Wright returns to the podcast to talk about his send of ‘Rhapsody’! We talked about the emotional dip after a hard send, the power of letting things come to you, making your own luck, patience as a tactic, top-down projecting, feeding our internal climbing algorithms, his process and how it felt to send, his next project, learning how to take the pressure off, and much more!

Get coaching from Mat!

matwrightcoaching.com

Check out Kletterkalk UK!

kletterkalk.co.uk

Mat's go-to chalk, and a great option for folks in the UK and Europe!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mat-wright-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:16) – Catch up and self-coaching

(00:08:58) – The dip after a hard send

(00:11:57) – Letting things come to you

(00:15:28) – His approach to ‘Rhapsody’ E11

(00:21:33) – Mindset and preparation

(00:24:22) – Making your own luck

(00:27:01) – Patience as a tactic

(00:31:51) – Top-down projecting

(00:36:15) – Feeding the climbing algorithm

(00:39:57) – Self 1 and self 2

(00:41:37) – The send

(00:44:54) – The process

(00:51:17) – The emotions after the send

(00:54:57) – Mat’s next project

(00:59:09) – Not taking it quite so seriously

(01:03:08) – Taking the pressure off

(01:11:00) – Taking time off

(01:18:37) – Less vs. more

(01:24:07) – Wrap up

Jaksot(382)

EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers

EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist who specializes in climbing injury rehab and prevention. We talked about freestyle rapping, the most common injuries in rock climbing, how to prevent knee, shoul...

13 Kesä 20222h 35min

EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as ...

6 Kesä 20222h 17min

EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching

EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching

Lea Volpe is a paraclimber for Great Britain and a 2x medalist at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships. Lea holds down a 9-5 job working in health policy, coaches junior athletes, and is essentia...

30 Touko 20222h 20min

EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up

EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up

Dr. Carrie Cooper is a former professional climber and a doctor of physical therapy. We talked about her background in gymnastics and dance, bouldering in the early 2000s, her path to physical therapy...

23 Touko 20222h 36min

EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast

EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast

The tables are turned in this episode! Steven Dimmitt joins Chad Andrews from Clipping Chains to talk about leaving his engineering career to start the podcast, building a craft vs. pursuing a passion...

16 Touko 20221h 55min

Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)

Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Joe Kinder. I sat down with Joe in a cave in Utah to talk about his process for sending his new route ‘Mamaja...

9 Touko 202232min

EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods

EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods

Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicit...

2 Touko 20221h 57min

EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down

EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down

Paul Robinson is one of the top boulderers in the world and has been climbing at a V15 level for more than a decade. We talked about building his new house, recovering from neck surgery, his recent di...

25 Huhti 20222h 33min

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