EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck

EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) returns for our promised part 2! This was every bit as good as our first episode. In part 2 we focused on how to build bulletproof knees and hamstrings for heel hooks, how to prevent shoulder injuries, how to strengthen and mobilize your neck and back, some of the most common changes to climber’s bodies as we age, and more. Paul also shared helpful advice for folks who feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of injury prevention.

We covered fingers, wrists, and elbows in EP 207.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 222: Paul Houghoughi Return — Uncut Video!

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Check out Fenix!

fenix-store.com

My Go-To Headlamp: HL32R-T

The Cadillac of Headlamps: HM65R-T V2.0

Check out Tindeq!

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

Check out KAYA!

kayaclimb.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

Check out Crimpd!

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:10) – Life update from Steven

(00:11:07) – OQS banter

(00:13:34) – Recap of my first episode with Paul (EP 207)

(00:18:48) – Wrist widgets

(00:23:33) – TFCC pain & injury prevention

(00:27:41) – Knee exercises for heel hooks

(00:32:44) – Lifting straps for hamstring training

(00:35:33) – Copenhagen planks with flexed hip

(00:39:20) – Clarifying questions

(00:43:50) – Protocols for hamstring work

(00:48:52) – Nordic curls

(00:51:52) – One-the-wall rehab for knee injuries

(00:54:51) – Sumo deadlift

(00:55:51) – How to train for tweaky heel hooks

(00:58:11) – Recap of hamstring rehab

(00:59:01) – How to strengthen your neck and back for carrying crash pads

(01:08:11) – Stop firefighting

(01:10:14) – How to release tight neck muscles

(01:12:38) – Daily joint mobilization

(01:15:15) – Multifidus injury & more neck rehab ideas

(01:22:05) – Shoulder injuries

(01:27:11) – How to build bulletproof shoulders

(01:31:01) – Turkish Get-Ups and kettlebells

(01:36:03) – Doing things for a specific reason

(01:41:17) – Having a meaningful goal

(01:43:01) – Good pain vs. bad pain

(01:48:46) – Patterns in aging climbers

(01:53:20) – Good climbers vs. Olympians

(01:55:59) – Coach & clinician symbiosis

(01:58:45) – The booty thrust

(02:02:11) – Tips for aspiring Physios

(02:06:52) – How Paul maintains an 8A level

(02:11:01) – What’s next for Paul

(02:13:02) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Tämä jakso on lisätty Podme-palveluun avoimen RSS-syötteen kautta eikä se ole Podmen omaa tuotantoa. Siksi jakso saattaa sisältää mainontaa.

Jaksot(390)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Touko 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Touko 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Huhti 2h 7min

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, ...

14 Huhti 54min

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first asce...

7 Huhti 1h 46min

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a soc...

23 Maalis 1h 55min

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the o...

9 Maalis 1h 30min

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helpe...

23 Helmi 2h 4min

Suosittua kategoriassa Koulutus

rss-murhan-anatomia
psykopodiaa-podcast
voi-hyvin-meditaatiot-2
kesken
rss-valo-minussa-2
rss-liian-kuuma-peruna
rss-narsisti
rss-niinku-asia-on
rss-rahamania
adhd-podi
psykologia
rss-vapaudu-voimaasi
aamukahvilla
rss-laadukasta-ensihoitoa
rss-mentalrace
rss-arkea-ja-aurinkoa-podcast-espanjasta
rss-hereilla
rahapuhetta
puhutaan-koiraa
ihminen-tavattavissa-tommy-hellsten-instituutti