EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut Video

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EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

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  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal

(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking

(00:11:28) – Limiting factors

(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit

(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting

(00:19:19) – Specializing

(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength

(00:21:18) – More on specialization

(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises

(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics

(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals

(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training

(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program

(00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols

(00:53:35) – When to progress weight

(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test

(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule

(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)

(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains

(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong

(01:05:29) – Repeaters

(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program

(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far

(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training

(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder

(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency

(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan

(01:35:12) – More about repeaters

(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season

(01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals

(01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps

(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals

(01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist

(02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel

(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports

(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip

(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Jaksot(383)

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EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

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EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

Justin Brown is the founder of Rhino Skin Solutions, a company that provides high-performance skincare products for rock climbers. We talked about best practices for skincare, tips for dialing skin fo...

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EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love

EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love

Ethan Pringle is one of the best all-around rock climbers in the world. We talked about practice vs. training, lessons learned from 50 days projecting ‘The Nest’, taking care of his dad and his experi...

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EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life

EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life

Chad Andrews is the maker of the Clipping Chains blog—a resource to help climbers navigate personal finance and move towards financial independence. We talked about reaching retirement at age 35, simp...

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EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

This is part 2 of my conversation with Mikey Schaefer. We talked about climbing as a finite resource, footwear for big walls, rope tricks, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system for team-free ascents, climbi...

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EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

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