Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance joins the show to look back at Season 1's interviews with 10 of the biggest names in climbing to see what themes and takeaways there are through the lens of Training.

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Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros like Alex Johnson to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Strap on your helmet, this one is packed with truth bombs!

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Topics:

  • Fast fingers vs strong fingers
  • Injury prevention and rehab
  • How to know when you're approaching junk mileage
  • Common plateaus and how to break through
  • The pyramid scheme

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This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @c4hp.

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Free Sticker Alert! Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review and post to IG and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.

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This show is hosted by Ryan Devlin and produced by Mary Mathis and Ryan Devlin, with additional support from Emily Holland.

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Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!

Jaksot(186)

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Elite climber Cedar Wright shares epic stories of suffering with Alex Honnold, learning the ways of Yosemite, Paragliding competitions, Free Soloing culture, and what it means to be a dirtbag. Plus, B...

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Finger Training 2.0 with Zachary Laschober of Specialized Masochism

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Climbing Coach Zachary Laschober joins to discuss: Sports-specific versus non-sport-specific finger training Limitations of the "standard" 20mm flat edge Hand and finger physiology for optimal pe...

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Anna Hazelnutt | Crag Chat: Finger Injuries, How to Focus Our Training, Naked in Nature, Dating Apps, and Dick Jokes

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Anna Hazelnutt is back with another Crag Chat packed with laughs, musings, updates, struggles, beta, and whatever else is on our minds, including: The climbing posters that hung on Anna’s childhood wa...

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Kai Lightner: Sending 5.15a and Beyond, Adapting to a Bigger Body, Competitor's Mindset, and the Future of Climbing

Kai Lightner: Sending 5.15a and Beyond, Adapting to a Bigger Body, Competitor's Mindset, and the Future of Climbing

Elite climber Kai Lightner shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAP...

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Useful Coach Tom Herbert: Pro Clinic on Fueling for Better Performance, Recovering Faster, and a Method to Cut Weight Without Cutting Calories

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In this Pro Clinic, Tom Herbert covers: How to "stack" carbs and protein around a workout Getting a head start on recovery after a hard sesh How nutrition changes for "on" days vs "off" days The bias ...

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Matt Samet: Building Strength and Power, Being Coached by Nina Williams, Redpoint Tactics, and Dealing with Anxiety On and Off the Rock

Matt Samet: Building Strength and Power, Being Coached by Nina Williams, Redpoint Tactics, and Dealing with Anxiety On and Off the Rock

Elite climber Matt Samet shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTE...

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Coach Eric Hörst is back to coach Ryan on his hardest project to date, his first 13a. This beta-packed conversation covers: What went right and wrong on Ryan's almost-send last season How to carry a p...

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