Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson

Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance joins the show to look back at Season 1's interviews with 10 of the biggest names in climbing to see what themes and takeaways there are through the lens of Training.

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Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros like Alex Johnson to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Strap on your helmet, this one is packed with truth bombs!

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Topics:

  • Fast fingers vs strong fingers
  • Injury prevention and rehab
  • How to know when you're approaching junk mileage
  • Common plateaus and how to break through
  • The pyramid scheme

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This season is supported by PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @c4hp.

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Free Sticker Alert! Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review and post to IG and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.

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This show is hosted by Ryan Devlin and produced by Mary Mathis and Ryan Devlin, with additional support from Emily Holland.

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Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!

Jaksot(186)

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Peter Croft

Peter Croft

Elite climber Peter Croft shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game.   -   It's hard to overstate the impact Peter Croft has had on the sport of rock ...

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Training Tip Tuesday: Kevin Jorgeson

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It's Tuesday! Grab a taco and dig in to this bite sized beta from Kevin Jorgeson as we recognize the 8th anniversary of one of the most impressive feats in climbing... and the mindset KJ implemented (...

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