EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and more.

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EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-megos

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:38) – Change 9b+, kneebars, and two 9a’s

(00:09:35) – His 9b project in Flatanger

(00:10:26) – 9b+ & 9c projects

(00:14:45) – Bibliographie

(00:20:00) – Germans are easy to talk to

(00:21:08) – The America Tour

(00:34:59) – Becoming a professional climber

(00:38:07) – Onsighting Estado Critico 9a

(00:43:59) – Fighting his way up Change

(00:45:51) – Leg pump

(00:46:55) – Falling in love with Norway

(00:48:38) – The stress of projecting in Flatanger

(00:50:01) – His peak shape in 2017

(00:52:34) – Resting more to reach his full potential

(00:55:47) – 13 training sessions in a week

(00:57:34) – Working on climbing with less tape

(01:02:59) – Going vegan to sweat less, & avoiding processed food

(01:05:50) – Carrot consumption

(01:07:51) – Olympics

(01:11:31) – Bouldering competitions

(01:12:51) – The board master

(01:14:37) – Outdoor bouldering

(01:16:00) – Wrap up

Jaksot(381)

EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training

EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training

This is a full bonus episode for Patrons! Maddy and I catch up about our weekend sends, Maddy shares a few key nuggets from our main episode, and then gives us a 2-hour masterclass in endurance traini...

3 Touko 20241h 2min

EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out

EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out

Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training. We talked about Maddy’s transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and le...

29 Huhti 20242h 39min

EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his fi...

22 Huhti 20242h 16min

EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)

EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)

Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negat...

15 Huhti 20241h 59min

EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of D...

8 Huhti 20241h 49min

EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films

EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films

Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING, a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose ...

1 Huhti 20241h 35min

EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury

EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury

Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Ba...

25 Maalis 20242h 7min

EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance

EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouT...

18 Maalis 20241h 37min

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