EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. We cover our favorite finger training methods, key principles to follow, how to apply your strength to the rock, how to avoid finger injuries, the power of consistency, and much more.

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Revival Climbing Coalition:

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EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-4

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – The NUG

(00:01:19) – Two things that have improved Jesse’s finger strength

(00:04:12) – Using climbing to gain finger strength

(00:07:53) – Overview

(00:09:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Do something simple enough that you can be consistent with it, and do it for a very long time

(00:11:02) – Examples of simple consistency

(00:13:48) – Climbing on a board

(00:18:14) – Jesse’s Tip #1: You probably don’t need much finger training

(00:19:37) – Maintaining finger strength on a trip

(00:21:50) – Steven’s Tip #2: Use big edges to get strong and use small edges to apply that strength to the rock

(00:31:28) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Understand the adaptations from different styles of training

(00:37:41) – Owning the hold

(00:38:43) – Finger curls/active flexion

(00:42:53) – Building forearm capacity and endurance

(00:44:08) – Rate of force development

(00:46:12) – Wall crawls/crimp crawls/low gear

(00:48:33) – Steven’s Tip #3: Own the hold

(00:53:32) – RPE and 10-second hangs

(00:56:32) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Practice grips on the wall

(01:01:28) – Steven’s Tip #4: Train a variety of grip types

(01:11:54) – Bonus Tip: The Ladder Program

(01:14:56) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Training too heavy

(01:17:20) – Genetric freaks and the 200 lb goal

(01:18:25) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not considering how you climb when you train your fingers (i.e. Your finger training should be specific to you)

(01:22:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Doing your finger training when you’re tired

(01:24:38) – Watching Tyler Nelson one-arm hang a 15mm edge when tired

(01:27:53) – Rate of Force test

(01:29:28) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Switching protocols too often

(01:30:30) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Too much “perfect” edge training

(01:34:44) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Stressing out about which protocol is “the best”

(01:36:30) – “It takes years”

(01:38:18) – Bonus Tip: N=1

(01:39:55) – Wrap up

Jaksot(381)

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition,...

21 Loka 20241h 38min

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs,...

17 Loka 202432min

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the em...

14 Loka 20241h 16min

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her ...

7 Loka 20242h 3min

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, w...

23 Syys 20241h 18min

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

Another phone call with Ron Kauk.Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org

19 Syys 202443min

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

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