EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beard

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:34) – The Murder Room

(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago

(00:10:02) – Molly’s background

(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s

(00:14:45) – The language of movement

(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master

(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s

(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes

(00:34:36) – The power of climbing

(00:35:49) – Getting her L5

(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting

(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting

(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends

(01:00:54) – Coordination

(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead

(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation

(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter

(01:12:10) – A tide shift

(01:18:29) – Molly’s current job & recent injuries

(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing

(01:24:49) – Finding separation

(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu

(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River

(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters

(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?

(01:52:14) – Splitting the field

(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”

(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Jaksot(382)

EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter

EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter

Dr. Rebecca Williams is a clinical psychologist, performance coach, and the author of Climb Smarter. We talked about the deeper fears that often underlie fear of falling, the underdeveloped self-sooth...

22 Elo 20221h 55min

EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle

EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle

Ryan Devlin is a television actor, entrepreneur, philanthropist, rock climber, and host of his new podcast The Struggle Climbing Show. We talked about parallels between climbing and being a TV actor, ...

15 Elo 20222h 49min

EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique

EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique

Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of The Climbing Bible. We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back clim...

8 Elo 20222h 21min

Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways fro...

5 Elo 202224min

EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner

EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner

Dorian Evers is an individual and couples therapist in Boulder, CO. We talked about navigating different stoke levels in your relationship, how to create a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable...

1 Elo 20222h 4min

EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, r...

25 Heinä 20222h 36min

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week we’ve got another Follow-Up with Steve Maisch! We talked about my summer training plan, how to get stronger on the Moonboard, combining ...

21 Heinä 202238min

EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance

EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance

Jesse Firestone is an elite boulderer, a climbing coach, and a climbing philosopher. He’s also a good friend of mine from Oregon. We talked about quantum leaps in our progression as climbers, Jesse’s ...

18 Heinä 20222h 44min

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