TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering

TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering

About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you'll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program.

In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he's an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and helped his clients make huge gains. Matt and I recently created a new Bouldering Training Program using all of the knowledge Matt has gained through seminars, studying, and working with clients since 2017.

In this interview, we talk about the methods he uses with his clients and how the bouldering training program is structured. Whether you use our new bouldering training program or not, this interview will help you understand how to structure a training program aimed at improving bouldering strength, power, and work capacity.

CHECK OUT THE NEW BOULDERING PROGRAM Matt Pincus Interview Details
  • Our new training program and why we changed it
  • Getting away from training according to grades and more according to training experience
  • Some examples of successful programs with his clients
  • How to structure an effective bouldering training program
  • How to level up your training over time
  • Why to train strength, power, skills, and power capacity all at once
  • How to train while trying to perform well outside
Matt Pincus Interview Links Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

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TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home

TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home

In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.

9 Huhti 20201h 18min

TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19

TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19

I talk with Matt Pincus about how to approach train at home during COVID-19, how we're training, our recommended equipment, and some workouts you can do.

24 Maalis 20201h 26min

TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers

TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers

Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.

12 Maalis 20201h 17min

TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training

TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training

I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.

26 Helmi 20201h 21min

TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely

TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely

I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.

6 Helmi 20201h 17min

TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing

TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing

In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.

22 Tammi 20201h 19min

TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers

TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers

Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.

15 Tammi 20201h 11min

TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills

TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills

Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses to improve climbing skills and strength.

18 Joulu 20191h 4min

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