TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering

TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering

About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you'll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program.

In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he's an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and helped his clients make huge gains. Matt and I recently created a new Bouldering Training Program using all of the knowledge Matt has gained through seminars, studying, and working with clients since 2017.

In this interview, we talk about the methods he uses with his clients and how the bouldering training program is structured. Whether you use our new bouldering training program or not, this interview will help you understand how to structure a training program aimed at improving bouldering strength, power, and work capacity.

CHECK OUT THE NEW BOULDERING PROGRAM Matt Pincus Interview Details
  • Our new training program and why we changed it
  • Getting away from training according to grades and more according to training experience
  • Some examples of successful programs with his clients
  • How to structure an effective bouldering training program
  • How to level up your training over time
  • Why to train strength, power, skills, and power capacity all at once
  • How to train while trying to perform well outside
Matt Pincus Interview Links Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

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TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods

TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods

Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.

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Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues

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Marina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with.

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TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing

TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing

I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.

22 Marras 20191h 14min

TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus

TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus

Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.

30 Loka 20191h 40min

TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother

TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother

Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood.

24 Loka 20191h 20min

TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting

TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting

I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.

17 Loka 20191h 9min

TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson

TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.

2 Loka 20191h 7min

TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello

TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello

I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.

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