TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering

TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering

About Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you'll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program.

In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he's an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and helped his clients make huge gains. Matt and I recently created a new Bouldering Training Program using all of the knowledge Matt has gained through seminars, studying, and working with clients since 2017.

In this interview, we talk about the methods he uses with his clients and how the bouldering training program is structured. Whether you use our new bouldering training program or not, this interview will help you understand how to structure a training program aimed at improving bouldering strength, power, and work capacity.

CHECK OUT THE NEW BOULDERING PROGRAM Matt Pincus Interview Details
  • Our new training program and why we changed it
  • Getting away from training according to grades and more according to training experience
  • Some examples of successful programs with his clients
  • How to structure an effective bouldering training program
  • How to level up your training over time
  • Why to train strength, power, skills, and power capacity all at once
  • How to train while trying to perform well outside
Matt Pincus Interview Links Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

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TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries

TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries

In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury. Once again, Tyler por...

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TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he's a climber who's incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injurie...

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TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a

TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a

6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger's 4th cohort of her Team program will begin! This is a group training program that ALSO provides you with a training pro...

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TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus

TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I'm sure you've been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing ...

30 Maalis 202258min

TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan

TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan

TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her early 50's who is also the president of Sportrock Climbing Cente...

16 Maalis 20221h 26min

TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection

TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection

Keenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as a skater and transitioned to climbing at about 17 years old...

10 Maalis 20221h 29min

TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients' and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and h...

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TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger

TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger

Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you o...

23 Helmi 20221h 21min

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