TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)

TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)

A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them.

That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too.

If you'd like to get bonus episodes from TrainingBeta, you can go over to Patreon where you can subscribe for as little as $5/month and get at least 75 minutes of extra stuff EVERY MONTH.

You'll get a Nutrition Bite, which is a short episode every month from me all about a specific nutrition topic, as well as a Team Roundtable, where Matt, Alex, and I will discuss a specific training/nutrition topic or do a Q&A like this one.

There are also old episodes in the vault that I've never published, and I'll be publishing those on Patreon soon.

CHECK OUT THE PATREON EPISODES Team Q&A: Training and Nutrition

In this sneak preview, we answered the following questions:

  • When to transition from indoor to outdoor climbing
  • When to transition from toproping to lead climbing
  • General nutrition advice for a climber who doesn't want to log their calories/macros
  • Training adaptations for very short climbers and very tall climbers

The questions we covered in the full episode on Patreon are:

  • Antagonist muscle training and how to work it into your program
  • What a typical performance block looks like in terms of maintenance training and time spent trying to send
  • Performance phase nutrition (for when you're trying to send stuff)
  • How to avoid takeout food with a very busy schedule

Jaksot(250)

TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries

TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries

In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury. Once again, Tyler por...

27 Huhti 202258min

TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he's a climber who's incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injurie...

13 Huhti 20221h 37min

TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a

TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a

6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger's 4th cohort of her Team program will begin! This is a group training program that ALSO provides you with a training pro...

6 Huhti 20221h 22min

TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus

TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I'm sure you've been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing ...

30 Maalis 202258min

TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan

TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan

TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her early 50's who is also the president of Sportrock Climbing Cente...

16 Maalis 20221h 26min

TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection

TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection

Keenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as a skater and transitioned to climbing at about 17 years old...

10 Maalis 20221h 29min

TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients' and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and h...

2 Maalis 20221h 27min

TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger

TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger

Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you o...

23 Helmi 20221h 21min

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