TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)

TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)

A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them.

That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too.

If you'd like to get bonus episodes from TrainingBeta, you can go over to Patreon where you can subscribe for as little as $5/month and get at least 75 minutes of extra stuff EVERY MONTH.

You'll get a Nutrition Bite, which is a short episode every month from me all about a specific nutrition topic, as well as a Team Roundtable, where Matt, Alex, and I will discuss a specific training/nutrition topic or do a Q&A like this one.

There are also old episodes in the vault that I've never published, and I'll be publishing those on Patreon soon.

CHECK OUT THE PATREON EPISODES Team Q&A: Training and Nutrition

In this sneak preview, we answered the following questions:

  • When to transition from indoor to outdoor climbing
  • When to transition from toproping to lead climbing
  • General nutrition advice for a climber who doesn't want to log their calories/macros
  • Training adaptations for very short climbers and very tall climbers

The questions we covered in the full episode on Patreon are:

  • Antagonist muscle training and how to work it into your program
  • What a typical performance block looks like in terms of maintenance training and time spent trying to send
  • Performance phase nutrition (for when you're trying to send stuff)
  • How to avoid takeout food with a very busy schedule

Jaksot(250)

TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti

TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti

This episode is a LITTLE bit different than all my others in that we're going to be talking about training, but for a different species: dogs! So many climbers have dogs, and because climbing has gott...

3 Elo 20221h 32min

TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition

TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition

New Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to u...

29 Heinä 202243min

TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes

TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes

Free Masterclass on the 5 Most Common Mistakes in Training and Climbing Next Tuesday we're doing a free, live masterclass on zoom to talk about the 5 most common training and nutrition mistakes climbe...

19 Heinä 20221h 9min

TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing

TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing

Allison Vest is a 27-year-old climber who lives in Salt Lake City. She's originally from Minnesota and moved to Canada when she was 7, where she fell in love with climbing. She had a lot of success co...

13 Heinä 20221h 25min

TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects

TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects

Work with Matt or Alex as Your Climbing Coach Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your clim...

6 Heinä 20221h 20min

TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger

TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger

Erin Ettenger is a 25-year-old software engineer who lives in Seattle, Washington. I asked Erin to be on the show because she uses our Route Climbing Training Program and has had some amazing success ...

22 Kesä 202249min

TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan

TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way. While Matt is a seasoned coach and ...

1 Kesä 20221h 5min

TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb

TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb is a 24-year-old boulderer out of the Bay area who has proven her abilities over and over with consistent sends of V14 boulders. Included in her resumé are The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop, New...

25 Touko 20221h 19min

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