TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)

TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)

A while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them.

That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too.

If you'd like to get bonus episodes from TrainingBeta, you can go over to Patreon where you can subscribe for as little as $5/month and get at least 75 minutes of extra stuff EVERY MONTH.

You'll get a Nutrition Bite, which is a short episode every month from me all about a specific nutrition topic, as well as a Team Roundtable, where Matt, Alex, and I will discuss a specific training/nutrition topic or do a Q&A like this one.

There are also old episodes in the vault that I've never published, and I'll be publishing those on Patreon soon.

CHECK OUT THE PATREON EPISODES Team Q&A: Training and Nutrition

In this sneak preview, we answered the following questions:

  • When to transition from indoor to outdoor climbing
  • When to transition from toproping to lead climbing
  • General nutrition advice for a climber who doesn't want to log their calories/macros
  • Training adaptations for very short climbers and very tall climbers

The questions we covered in the full episode on Patreon are:

  • Antagonist muscle training and how to work it into your program
  • What a typical performance block looks like in terms of maintenance training and time spent trying to send
  • Performance phase nutrition (for when you're trying to send stuff)
  • How to avoid takeout food with a very busy schedule

Jaksot(250)

TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers

TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers

In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so...

2 Marras 202229min

TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance

TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance

Kevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who's been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrote a book, Climbing Psychology: Mind Training for Optimal Cli...

26 Loka 20221h 15min

TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing

TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing

You may have heard me say that I've been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental "blocks." Well, it's been so valuable working with her that...

19 Loka 20221h 22min

TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)

TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with clients have changed over the years. Matt and Alex talk abou...

13 Loka 20221h 28min

TBP 214: Matt Pincus's 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

TBP 214: Matt Pincus's 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the ...

29 Syys 20221h 1min

What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

In this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard. I know it's tempting to just not eat all day ...

15 Syys 202228min

TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training

TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants u...

31 Elo 202255min

TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of "endurance" in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic syste...

24 Elo 20221h 17min

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