TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection

TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection

Keenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as a skater and transitioned to climbing at about 17 years old. I wanted to talk with Keenan because–let's be honest–I love his moustachio… and because I wanted to understand what sets him apart from other climbers.

He's climbed all over the world, he's in countless videos (just google his name), and he clearly tries VERY HARD to excel at this sport. He's intense and light-hearted all at the same time. He's confident and humble at the same time, and I admire all of those qualities very much. I was honored to have a Skype sit-down with him from his van in Yosemite.

We talked about his journey in climbing and what sets him apart as a climber, which he thinks is his obsessive personality. Honestly, I've never thought that being obsessive was a positive quality, but after talking to him I kind of want to cultivate more of it in my climbing life. His pursuits of progression and perfection in bouldering have led to an illustrious resume so far, and the fact that he JUST started training a couple months ago makes me think that maybe he's just getting started.

I walked away from this interview feeling soothed and inspired all at once. He's well-spoken and self-aware, which always makes for an excellent discussion, and I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

Keenan Takahashi Interview Details
  • How he developed as a climber
  • How progression is the thing that drives him in all his pursuits
  • How skateboarding and bouldering are similar
  • How his obsessive nature has helped him
  • Why climbing keeps him awake at night
  • How visualizing climbs makes him climb better
  • What "good tactics" are to him
  • What sets him apart from other climbers
  • How much to rest between burns
  • Whether his body/recovery has changed since he was 17
  • Training now – his protocol and results he's seeing
  • Plans after being a pro climber
Show Links Photo

Photo of Keenan in Bishop by @ktlambies

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TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries

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TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols

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Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he's a climber who's incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injurie...

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TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a

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6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger's 4th cohort of her Team program will begin! This is a group training program that ALSO provides you with a training pro...

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TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus

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TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan

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TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13's by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her early 50's who is also the president of Sportrock Climbing Cente...

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TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger

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How to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients' and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and h...

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TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger

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