TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb

TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb is a 24-year-old boulderer out of the Bay area who has proven her abilities over and over with consistent sends of V14 boulders. Included in her resumé are The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop, New Base Line (V14) in Magic Wood in Switzerland, Jade (V14) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Direct North (V14) in Bishop, and so many more.

She's a Stanford graduate and works half time as a data scientist focused on clean energy, but her main priority is climbing. She's surprisingly not sponsored, and I asked her why that is and if she would be a full-time climber instead of working as a data scientist.

I also asked Katie about what sets her apart from other climbers–what makes her sooo good at bouldering. She started climbing at a really young age just outside of Boston on a youth team that emphasized the importance of outdoor climbing. She's taken those values to heart and hasn't competed indoors for a long time, preferring to spend all of her time outside on hard projects.

One of the reasons I asked Katie to be on the show is that I heard about her willingness to rest a lot when she's projecting. I really appreciated that coming from such a strong climber, as most super strong climbers I know do not rest more than 1 or 2 days at a time, ever.

Katie tells us all about her mindset in climbing, her training program she just started (and whether it's helping her), and how she's prepping for her summer Rocklands trip. I really enjoyed talking with Katie, and I found myself mulling over some things she'd said for weeks after we talked. She's wise beyond her years and takes this sport very seriously – I hope you enjoy!

Katie Lamb Interview Details
  • How she developed as a climber
  • Why she goes after aesthetic, historic lines
  • Why she's not just a sponsored climber
  • Why THINKING about climbing a lot helps her send
  • Why she only climbed every 5 days while trying The Swarm
  • Whether or not she'd be happy just climbing and not working
  • How many is too many tries on a boulder – when she gives up
  • What sets her apart from other climbers
  • Her new strength program from Natasha Barnes
  • Why she regressed on her project recently
Show Links Photo Credit

Photo of Katie on The Penrose Step (V14) in Leavenworth, Washington by @keenantakahashi

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TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus

TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus

This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was wo...

8 Maalis 20231h 36min

TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training

TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries. Last year, Tyler saw over 600 pati...

22 Helmi 202358min

TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers

TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers

This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I've ever done, and I'll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Be...

1 Helmi 20231h 39min

TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer

TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They're both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, s...

19 Tammi 20231h 23min

TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so sh...

4 Tammi 20231h 11min

TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days

TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there's a growing ne...

14 Joulu 20221h 17min

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the tr...

8 Joulu 20221h 19min

TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing

TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing

David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He's been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump ...

16 Marras 20221h 18min

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