TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan

TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way.

While Matt is a seasoned coach and climber, he was under some various constraints that made training challenging this year. One of those constraints was that Matt was working at a restaurant and coaching for a total of about 70 hours per week, so his plan needed to be efficient.

The other is that he only had a board to climb on the entire time, and not that much other equipment. He made some mistakes along the way and suffered some consequences, and he'll tell you all about what he learned in this episode.

I think anyone listening to this episode will learn a few things about proper training tactics, whether you have similar constraints or not.

Episode Details
  • What he did (and is doing) to train for his 5.14b project this summer
  • What went wrong
  • How he fit training in to 70+ hour work weeks
  • Injuries/inflammation that occured
  • How he's dealing with those consequences now
  • What he would've done differently
  • What he learned as a coach from his own mistakes
Show Links Train with Matt

Coach Matt Pincus provides training plans to climbers of all levels from anywhere in the world. If you need help with your climbing strength, power, mental game, skills, or tactics, Matt can help you. He will sit down with you over zoom to find out your goals, your available equipment, and time restrictions and then create a month-long plan for you on the True Coach app.

You'll have access to Matt via email and the app for however long you work with him. He also offers one-hour consultations if you just want a few questions answered or to help you build your own training program. Find out more at the link below.

TRAIN WITH MATT Please Review The Podcast on iTunes

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Jaksot(250)

TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups

TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can p...

19 Heinä 20231h 24min

TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance

TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance

Back in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climb...

13 Heinä 20231h 25min

TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster

TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster

In this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous "checklist" that he uses when he's projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt's job is...

24 Touko 20231h 12min

TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt

TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The "energy systems" we're talking about are po...

10 Touko 20231h 39min

TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing

TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing

Steep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She'll be using a series of videos and o...

26 Huhti 20231h 18min

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3

A couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and persona...

19 Huhti 20231h 25min

TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins

TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins

In this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt, about her new book, More. In it, she describes the transition she went through from being a full-time pro climber to h...

30 Maalis 20231h 10min

TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger

TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger

Climbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your overall climbing fitness. She will do 4 weekly 90-minute zoom ca...

15 Maalis 20231h 31min

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