TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan

TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way.

While Matt is a seasoned coach and climber, he was under some various constraints that made training challenging this year. One of those constraints was that Matt was working at a restaurant and coaching for a total of about 70 hours per week, so his plan needed to be efficient.

The other is that he only had a board to climb on the entire time, and not that much other equipment. He made some mistakes along the way and suffered some consequences, and he'll tell you all about what he learned in this episode.

I think anyone listening to this episode will learn a few things about proper training tactics, whether you have similar constraints or not.

Episode Details
  • What he did (and is doing) to train for his 5.14b project this summer
  • What went wrong
  • How he fit training in to 70+ hour work weeks
  • Injuries/inflammation that occured
  • How he's dealing with those consequences now
  • What he would've done differently
  • What he learned as a coach from his own mistakes
Show Links Train with Matt

Coach Matt Pincus provides training plans to climbers of all levels from anywhere in the world. If you need help with your climbing strength, power, mental game, skills, or tactics, Matt can help you. He will sit down with you over zoom to find out your goals, your available equipment, and time restrictions and then create a month-long plan for you on the True Coach app.

You'll have access to Matt via email and the app for however long you work with him. He also offers one-hour consultations if you just want a few questions answered or to help you build your own training program. Find out more at the link below.

TRAIN WITH MATT Please Review The Podcast on iTunes

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Jaksot(250)

TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus

TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus

This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was wo...

8 Maalis 20231h 36min

TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training

TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries. Last year, Tyler saw over 600 pati...

22 Helmi 202358min

TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers

TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers

This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I've ever done, and I'll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Be...

1 Helmi 20231h 39min

TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer

TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They're both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, s...

19 Tammi 20231h 23min

TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so sh...

4 Tammi 20231h 11min

TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days

TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there's a growing ne...

14 Joulu 20221h 17min

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the tr...

8 Joulu 20221h 19min

TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing

TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing

David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He's been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump ...

16 Marras 20221h 18min

Suosittua kategoriassa Vapaa-aika

nikotellen
antin-matka
sita
the-harlin-show
ihan-oikeesti
unicast
rss-nikotellen
eturivi
rss-naapurissa
tahtitehdas
mutsiputki
kaikkea-hyvaa
oral-sex
terkuin-jenna
himocast
mysteeripodcast
everypodi
junnut-pelissa
20-30-40-podcast
rss-viihde-media