EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journey from mountaineering to sport climbing, bolting Jumbo Love and other famous routes, why money equals freedom, his passion for surfing, reflections from almost drowning, aging gracefully, and much more.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne

Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/randy-leavitt

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:12) – The Dune Cracks

(00:05:52) – Offwidth climbing

(00:09:17) – Traumatic hip belays

(00:14:35) – Bolting Jumbo Love

(00:20:01) – From mountaineering to sport climbing

(00:26:03) – Book of Hate

(00:31:11) – Planet Earth

(00:33:39) – The first cell phones

(00:39:47) – Money, freedom, & happiness

(00:42:45) – Surfing vs. climbing

(00:54:15) – The vision of new routing

(00:56:52) – A new area in Baja

(01:01:16) – Thinking ahead to 40

(01:13:44) – Almost drowning

(01:21:50) – Aging gracefully

(01:27:54) – Hallux limitus

(01:34:24) – Getting remodeled

(01:39:21) – Piloting

(01:49:55) – More route development

(01:53:36) – The Grand Canyon

(01:56:26) – Time

(02:00:06) – Don’t squander your days

Jaksot(383)

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue p...

28 Loka 20241h 22min

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign...

23 Loka 20242h 56min

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition,...

21 Loka 20241h 38min

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs,...

17 Loka 202432min

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the em...

14 Loka 20241h 16min

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her ...

7 Loka 20242h 3min

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. ...

30 Syys 20241h 41min

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, w...

23 Syys 20241h 18min

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