​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing

(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams

(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead

(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)

(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers

(00:30:08) – The Needles

(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil

(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins

(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time

(00:49:59) – The Winnebago

(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds

(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch

(01:05:11) – City of Rocks

(01:10:24) – Drawing the line

(01:16:12) – Old school bolting

(01:24:40) – Riggins

(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing

(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing

(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym

(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days

(01:43:13) – Listen to your body

(01:46:17) – Respect your body

(01:47:50) – What excites Tony

Jaksot(385)

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Elo 20241h 2min

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into s...

19 Elo 20245min

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electr...

12 Elo 20242h

EP 232: Natalia Grossman (Olympian) — Her Breakout Success, Overcoming Mental & Physical Hurdles, & What It Takes to Win

EP 232: Natalia Grossman (Olympian) — Her Breakout Success, Overcoming Mental & Physical Hurdles, & What It Takes to Win

Natalia Grossman is a World Champion and 3x overall World Cup winner and will compete for Team USA at the Paris Olympics. We talked about spending time in Mexico as a kid, her breakout year in 2021, d...

5 Elo 20241h 30min

EP 231: Colin Duffy (Olympian) — His Journey as a 2x Olympian, Comp Scoring & Strategy, & Future Outdoor Goals

EP 231: Colin Duffy (Olympian) — His Journey as a 2x Olympian, Comp Scoring & Strategy, & Future Outdoor Goals

Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open...

29 Heinä 20241h 53min

EP 230: Emma Hunt (Olympian) — Why Speed Climbing is Legit, the Mental Game & Strategy of Racing, & Chasing World Records

EP 230: Emma Hunt (Olympian) — Why Speed Climbing is Legit, the Mental Game & Strategy of Racing, & Chasing World Records

Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how ...

22 Heinä 20242h 12min

EP 229: Shauna Coxsey (Olympian) — Climbing Harder After Pregnancy, Motivation vs. Commitment, and Letting Kids Be Themselves

EP 229: Shauna Coxsey (Olympian) — Climbing Harder After Pregnancy, Motivation vs. Commitment, and Letting Kids Be Themselves

Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human na...

15 Heinä 20241h 50min

EP 228: How to Easily Improve Your Flexibility for Climbing — Josh Hadley (Lattice Training)

EP 228: How to Easily Improve Your Flexibility for Climbing — Josh Hadley (Lattice Training)

Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my f...

8 Heinä 20242h 30min

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