EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Matt Heyliger, DPT is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve talked to when it comes to climbing-related injuries and rehab. We talked about climbing together in Ten Sleep, how he is currently helping me treat carpal tunnel syndrome, how to achieve long-term health and performance, his skiing injury and the eyeball story, top recommendations for climbers, lessons from living in Spain, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be  We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-heyligerNuggets:0:06:01 – Camping iterations0:08:29 – Daughters, and fairy house construction0:10:06 – Spending a year in Spain, landing in Red Lodge Montana, and the bear den story0:14:13 – Moose battles, and mountain biking0:15:29 – The campsite, and our cold weather sends0:18:53 – An introduction to Matt and his path to physical therapy0:26:31 – How Matt diagnoses an injury (using my carpal tunnel as an example), and what Matt noticed about my shoulder mechanics0:38:54 – The skill of injury assessment0:40:15 – Tissue capacity vs. biomechanics, and ironing out issues early on in your climbing0:45:35 – Why you should pick up heavy stuff0:47:26 – Combining loading and optimal mechanics for long-term health and performance0:49:41 – The path forward for me to fix my carpal tunnel0:55:21 – Matt’s thoughts on manipulations and chiropractic work0:59:46 – Imaging in diagnosing injuries, and when imaging can be overused1:01:36 – Getting attached to a diagnosis1:04:06 – A bit about pain science, and the importance of hope1:06:48 – Language cues and mindset1:10:16 – How chest opening and mobilizing the thoracic spine will likely help fix my carpal tunnel1:12:12 – How to get my lower trapezius firing again, and the role of dry needling1:16:59 – My rehab plan for Hueco1:19:15 – Matt’s hopes for me in returning to Ten Sleep next year1:22:22 – Why mobility comes before strength1:25:26 – When to fit stretching into your schedule1:28:36 – Antagonist training, finger loading, and having a rest day movement activity1:32:23 – Yoga recommendations for climbers, and having a simple movement practice1:38:27 – The eyeball story1:58:16 – Spain2:05:01 – Embracing the slower pace2:08:46 – Work-life balance, and the emotional investment of doing work that you love2:16:36 – Matt’s vision for his PT business2:18:53 – Where to connect with Matt (mattheyliger.com)2:19:56 – How to find a good PT2:22:43 – Matt’s current climbing goal, and getting excited about performance climbing2:29:35 – Wrap up

7 Marras 20222h 33min

Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. *He sent Alphane V17 two weeks after this interview. Congrats Aidan!!!Listen to more top bouldering episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aidan-robertsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:13) – Seasons are shifting(00:08:52) – Prepping for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17 (9A), and setting his replica(00:11:44) – Trying Alphane, and bullet points(00:13:10) – We’ve already planned on a round 2!(00:15:23) – Crushing hard boulders to Elton John, and finding focus through relaxation(00:19:43) – Aidan’s first trip to the Rocklands and leaving competitions behind(00:26:01) – How Aidan developed his style, and how he thinks about training his weaknesses(00:28:02) – Differences among top boulderers, what Aidan learned from climbing with Dave Graham, and the shared trait of perseverance(00:36:10) – Aidan’s climbing style, high-angle crimps, and leg crimping(00:42:41) – How Aidan’s style is different from how Shawn Raboutou climbs(00:46:38) – Redefining what it means to be strong, and making your training specific(00:47:56) – Aidan’s thoughts on why none of the current V17’s (9A’s) have been repeated yet(00:50:18) – Getting away from “simple tasks” and reductionism in training(00:56:24) – How Aidan got so good at his style of climbing and high-angle crimping(01:03:07) – Discovering sling testing with Dan Varian, and training with mono slings(01:07:23) – Summary of how Aidan got so good at his climbing style(01:09:28) – Training in a high-angle position, and how he strengthened his index fingers(01:11:37) – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and testing with Ollie Torr(01:16:09) – How strong is Aidain on the Beastmaker 2000 center edge?(01:18:09) – Why simple finger strength testing doesn’t necessarily apply to our finger strength on the rock(01:22:19) – More about training his index fingers(01:26:21) – Quality and applicability in training(01:28:08) – “There is no rapid magic formula for finger strength”(01:29:07) – How Aidan approaches a project, and collecting bullet points for each move(01:35:01) – Aidan’s pre-send rituals(01:39:01) – Using bullet points to set the replica for Alphane, carving wooden holds, and measuring moves(01:45:59) – Training his legs for Alphane, and Copenhagen planks for abductors(01:47:50) – Using feet follow rules on his board(01:49:57) – Climbing Alphane from two moves in, and how to train for long boulders on a home wall or board(01:59:28) – Going to Finland to try Burden of Dreams V17 (9A), and what he learned from trying it(02:09:49) – Mastery(02:14:17) – Plans to train for Burden of Dreams(02:19:37) – Screwdriver injury(02:22:17) – Aidan’s philosophy with training on replicas, and climbing Isles of Wonder Sit V16 (8C+)(02:27:21) – Balancing highly specific training (replicas) with other training(02:29:48) – Aidan’s formula for goal setting (result, reality, and response)(02:33:09) – His goal setting formula applied to Alphane(02:36:37) – Influence and contribution, and Aidan’s podcast and magazine(02:42:13) – Traveling, and considering our environmental impact as climbers(02:52:24) – Thinking about offsetting my CO2 for my trip to Rocklands next summer(02:55:39) – Plans to live in the US for a year(02:57:21) – Wrap up

1 Marras 20223h 2min

Robbie Phillips is a professional adventure climber and filmmaker from Scotland. We talked about his recent trip to the Western Isles of Scotland, his path from competitions to adventure climbing, top rope soloing to project hard routes, things he learned from climbing with Dave MacLeod, processing grief, capturing memories through filmmaking, and much more. Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robbie-phillipsNuggets:0:07:14 – The Suzuki photo shoot, broken car, and tea without milk0:10:00 – Onsighting the podcast0:10:34 – Robbie’s recent trip to St. Kilda0:16:15 – Rock types and the style of climbing in the Western Isles of Scotland0:21:08 – Climbing a sea cliff in Dùn0:26:27 – Robbie’s path from competition climbing to adventure climbing0:35:12 – Climbing Bellevista 13d/14a (8b/+) in the Dolomites0:38:56 – Imposter syndrome, and not being a natural at bold adventure climbing0:40:48 – Being good at suffering0:42:26 – Following the psych0:45:10 – Patron question from Christoph: How does Robbie train for hard trad climbing specifically?0:47:47 – What We Do in the Shadows E10 (14b/8c)0:50:19 – The E grading system, and why Robbie isn’t a big fan of that system0:55:20 – Indian Creek, and Robbie’s first day “flailing around” in Yosemite0:57:06 – Patron question from Christoph: What does Robbie do to steel his mind for scary leads?1:00:08 – Robbie’s almost life-altering accident when he started trad climbing, and the lesson he learned1:03:44 – Breakdown of What We Do in the Shadows1:11:06 – The process of projecting the route, his dad passing away, and the darkest period of his life1:18:37 – How Robbie’s mom is doing now1:20:32 – Robbie’s dad1:26:32 – A few things Robbie learned from projecting with Dave MacLeod1:33:46 – Why Robbie prefers working projects via top rope solo, and why he loves the Taz LOV31:49:02 – Balancing performance with having fun1:53:52 – The Long Hope, and fulmars2:02:06 – Robbie’s filmmaking, and capturing memories2:14:18 – How Robbie makes a living2:16:10 – I respect all the other podcasters!2:17:02 – Why the new Long Hope film was so fun to work on, and entering it in the Kendal Mountain Festival2:22:02 – Patron question from GeneO: Why does Robbie consider himself a professional climber but not a professional athlete?2:24:59 – Upcoming climbing goals2:28:02 – Does Robbie want to try Lexicon?2:30:34 – Wrap up

24 Loka 20222h 34min

Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tommy-caldwellNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:07:08) – What is your Dawn Wall?(00:07:59) – Tommy’s injury and his canceled trip to Germany(00:09:53) – Tommy’s Instagram post about his injury, why he shared it, and creating accountability(00:15:21) – Trying Magic Line and what Tommy’s climbing looks like these days (pre-injury)(00:17:35) – Why El Cap is so significant to Tommy, and his time spent at the Fortress of Solitude in CO(00:20:17) – Bringing his adventure mindset to bolting and climbing Kryptonite and Flex Luthor(00:23:05) – Matty Hong’s repeat of Flex Luthor, and Tommy’s thoughts on the grade(00:25:20) – The differences between Chris Sharma and Tommy, and trying Biographie (first 5.15a/9a+) with Chris(00:28:48) – Similarities between El Cap and competition bouldering(00:30:04) – Why Tommy is drawn to “blue collar” climbing, and finding the niche that barely anyone wants to do(00:31:56) – Patron Question from Christoph: Why is/was Tommy so far ahead of everyone else when it comes to big wall free climbing?(00:34:00) – Patron Question from Atlin: What’s the next big objective that hasn’t been done in Yosemite?(00:35:16) – Leo Houlding’s vision for El Cap, and freeing the Passage to Freedom with Alex Honnold(00:38:46) – More free routes on El Cap, family time in Yosemite, and their yearly trip to Fontainebleau(00:41:13) – What made the difference the season he sent the Dawn Wall, and training for the V12 boulder problems on the crux pitches(00:46:42) – Will the Dawn Wall be climbed in a day?(00:47:55) – What did it feel like to see Adam Ondra send the Dawn Wall so quickly?(00:52:18) – Tommy’s TC Pro quiver, and wearing the same size shoe for everything(00:55:17) – Toenail fungus, and Tommy’s experience with Lamasil(00:58:59) – Making a living as a pro climber, and which parts have felt like work(01:01:15) – Writing the book, and how the book affected his relationship with his dad(01:08:38) – Tommy’s parenting philosophy, and Becca as “tiger mom”(01:12:13) – Patron Question from Eli: Tips for climber dads?(01:13:53) – Patron Question from John: Who taught Tommy vulnerability?(01:19:16) – Patron Question from TJ: How does Tommy keep the psych through injury?(01:20:40) – The story behind Tommy’s repeated achilles injury(01:25:25) – Does Tommy have things in climbing that feel undone?(01:27:22) – Bouldering projects around Estes, and climbing in Upper Chaos(01:29:26) – Is Tommy still improving at climbing?(01:30:27) – The king line on El Cap(01:34:45) – Future linkups in Yosemite(01:36:57) – Tommy’s favorite Disney movie(01:37:36) – Favorite snack for big walls/linkups, and the CUDL experience(01:40:19) – Exploring the limits of human endurance, and learning the logistics from ultra runners(01:42:35) – How hard does Tommy climb on the Moonboard?(01:42:58) – Big wall pooping stories(01:45:22) – Another book?(01:46:34) – What Tommy is trying to do with environmentalism, and the Oak Flat mine(01:49:31) – Wrap up

19 Loka 20221h 52min

Lynn Hill is a living legend. She is best known for being the first person to free El Capitan via The Nose in 1993. We talked about what it is like to be Lynn Hill in the modern climbing world, her upbringing, what sets her apart, the story of freeing The Nose, tips for shorter climbers, her mindset and affirmations, self-belief, how she makes a living these days, upcoming video projects, and much more.Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/lynn-hillNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:06:27) – Lynn’s technique video(00:12:58) – How Lynn thinks about climbing technique(00:16:47) – The documentary Lynn is working on, and Lynn’s thoughts on Free Solo(00:18:53) – Having the vision to free climb The Nose(00:21:01) – What it feels like to be Lynn Hill, and why she likes her gates facing out(00:28:07) – Being famous before the internet(00:29:48) – Harrison Ford, and how to act toward famous people(00:33:33) – Being the first woman to climb 12d (7c), traveling to Europe in 1986, and learning French(00:38:01) – Finishing college, getting “kidnapped by climbing”, and her first sponsorship(00:42:33) – Being connected to the people who are pushing the sport forward, and Lynn's project with Sasha DiGiulian(00:50:24) – Who excites Lynn the most in climbing right now(00:56:22) – Why Lynn decided to try to free The Nose(01:00:33) – The reality of aging, and appreciating the journey(01:06:11) – Why The Nose was such a special experience(01:08:53) – Lynn’s visualization process, climbing her first 5.14 in France, and yawning before redpoint attempts(01:11:14) – Breathing and screaming(01:14:12) – Lynn’s process of freeing The Nose(01:23:41) – Projecting the Changing Corners pitch(01:28:11) – Going for it, and Brooke Sandahl’s role in The Nose going free(01:32:07) – Why Lynn decided to free The Nose in a day, and how she trained for it(01:35:56) – Her mindset for efficiency on The Nose, and sending during the full moon(01:40:01) – “It’s actually pretty strenuous…” and the Lynn Hill traverse(01:41:59) – Lynn’s height and ape index (5’1 1/4”, 0 ape index)(01:43:29) – Advice for shorter climbers(01:45:53) – First Ascent (Naked Edge film by Bob Carmichael), and the training Lynn was doing in the early 80s(01:53:14) – Lynn’s family upbringing, her temperament, and what sets her apart(01:55:58) – The “what if” game, and taking an unconventional path(01:59:07) – Lynn’s current sponsorships, and how she makes a living these days(02:03:09) – There are a lot of ways to make it as a pro climber(02:07:56) – Patron Question from Nick: What parts of climbing culture would you like to see maintained? What would you be happy to see disappear?(02:13:33) – Patron Question from Bradley: What do Lynn’s passions look like today?(02:15:23) – Patron Question from Jessica: Onsighting the FA of Mingus in 1994 in the Verdon(02:21:59) – Patron Question from Matt: What was it like climbing on The Nose with Nina Caprez? Are you mentoring any other women?(02:29:07) – Building ab strength after having a baby, and Lynn’s replica of the Changing Corners intro move(02:32:20) – Other women Lynn has mentored(02:33:51) – Patron Question from Craig: Who have you climbed with that had amazing footwork?(02:36:12) – Patron Question from Christoph: Can Lynn speak about the mental side of pushing boundaries?(02:41:32) – Patron Question from Emily: How did Lynn learn to be independent from the limiting gendered cues coming from society at the time in order to realize her true potential?(02:44:33) – Lynn’s positive affirmations, challenging societal norms as a teenager, and seeing injustice in the world(02:51:12) – Patron Question from Mark: Have women reached parody in climbing? If not, what can be done?(02:58:45) – What Lynn is most excited about right now, her Italian name, and the value of learning other languages(03:02:26) – Feeling excited about her new route on The Maiden, and ideas for her next trip to France(03:05:32) – More about the documentary Lynn is working on(03:09:04) – Where to buy “It goes boys” shirts, and signed photos from Lynn!(03:11:01) – Lynn’s plans for Hueco

10 Loka 20223h 15min

My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig LeeBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-6Nuggets:0:00:00 – Introducing Taylor!0:03:00 – Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited:0:03:00 – Metal Game0:06:09 – Watching Videos0:09:55 – Visualization0:13:29 – Decision Maps (and having a backup plan)0:23:43 – Adding Stability Elements to Strength Exercises0:28:37 – Getting Creative0:29:41 – One-Time Coaching Calls0:30:24 – How to connect with Tay!0:30:59 – Patron Questions:0:30:59 – Hakan’s Question: Any nuggets for nighttime bouldering sessions?0:36:42 – Cody’s Question: Training recommendations for a 5.10 mountain guide, and biggest bang-for-your-buck strength training exercise for climbing?0:43:19 – Justin’s Question: How often do you look at other people's beta videos when you're trying a boulder or sport climb? Do you ever avoid them on purpose?0:49:57 – Toby’s comment and the benefit of taking notes on podcasts/books/etc0:57:06 – Sytse’s Question: Do you still do Emil Abrahamsson’s twice-a-day hangboard protocol?1:00:26 – Murpheys_law24: How do you warm up for max hangs on a lifting day?1:04:25 – Briana’s Question: Do “old sends” count for your current pyramid? And thoughts on the 1-2-4-8-16 pyramid vs. 1-3-9-27?

3 Loka 20221h 15min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:39.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNed’s Original Episode:EP 113: Ned Feehally

29 Syys 202223min

Drew Ruana is back on the podcast and is joined by his friend Cameron Hörst, who is one of the best young sport climbers in the country. We talked about lessons they’ve each learned from recent sends, what it was like growing up as kid crushers, training for bouldering vs. sport climbing, how to stay strong while projecting, Drew’s thoughts on climbing V18, and Cam’s thoughts on climbing 5.15c.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/drew-and-cameronNuggets:0:06:31 – What they climbed on today0:07:59 – Drew’s skin injury in Bishop back in 20200:09:38 – Cam’s bouldering trip to CO, and plans to do more bouldering0:12:04 – Why Drew pivoted to bouldering0:14:38 – Why ‘The Ice Knife’ and ‘Dire Wolf’ stand out to Drew0:18:58 – How Drew balances hard projects with quick ticks, and trying ‘Megatron’ V17 for 70+ days0:23:57 – Cam’s experiences climbing ‘Bone Tomahawk’ 15a and ‘Resisting Arrest’ 14d0:27:43 – Training mode for Big Claw 14d0:30:00 – Patron question from Tristan: For Drew, what are 1-3 things you’ve learned from doing so many hard boulders in CO?0:34:23 – What keeps the fire burning for Drew, and the drug rush of sending a new hard boulder0:36:36 – How many V16s are there in the world?0:37:22 – Drew’s thoughts on switching back to sport climbing, and how many 5.15s there are in the US0:41:53 – The Grand Illusion0:44:15 – Taking a gap year to try to climb 5.15, and what Cam learned from climbing with Joe Kinder and doing ‘Bone Tomahawk’0:49:57 – Patron question from Howard: Cam, what position did you play in high school football? Did any skills from football transfer to climbing?0:52:35 – Having a team (or climbing partner) who builds you up0:54:59 – Wes Schweitzer (NFL offensive lineman)1:00:23 – Patron question from Xander: Cam, do you still play football? Did you train for climbing during football season?1:03:58 – How team sports helped make Cam a well-rounded athlete, and being exposed to lots of different things growing up1:07:13 – Drew and Cam’s thoughts on their different upbringings as kid climbers1:13:50 – Patron question from Eli: What did they love/hate about being kid crushers? What do they appreciate about how their parents handled their climbing lives?1:19:02 – Patron question from Christoph: Cam, what was it like having a famous coach as a dad? And Cam’s plans to carry the torch1:23:48 – Patron question from Xander: How do you balance training and sending? Do you cycle between training and sending, or can both happen concurrently? (Drew’s bench press and pull-up numbers)1:29:22 – Drew’s thoughts on spending the last three years only focused on outdoor bouldering1:33:14 – Cam’s thoughts on the difference between training for bouldering vs. sport climbers, and how he balances training and performance cycles1:39:36 – Drew’s thoughts on maintaining his aerobic base when focusing on bouldering1:46:25 – Patron question from Bryce: I’m about to hit the road for a year. Should I mix in training to keep my strength up?1:49:52 – The guys give me their recommendations for keeping my strength up on a three-month sport climbing trip1:54:28 – Cam’s goal to climb 5.15b (9b), what it would take for him to climb 15c (9b+), and plans for his career2:00:35 – Drew’s thoughts on what it will take for him to climb V182:06:58 – Drew’s recent FA of Distortion V16, and plans to climb more V16s2:12:13 – Cam’s plans for the Fin Cave2:13:24 – Drew’s thoughts on his career2:17:33 – Flow state2:19:39 – Who Cam is most impressed by in climbing2:21:31 – Who Drew is most impressed by in climbing

26 Syys 20222h 26min