EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!  We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varianNuggets:0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions0:10:36 – Dan’s resume0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people’s training0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan’s attention to detail0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts0:26:40 – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results0:45:24 – Dan’s interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do1:12:35 – Dan’s strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn’t apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things1:14:56 – Dan’s advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to Dan’s, and what he is working on with his finger training1:19:21 – Why Dan thinks I should train my lazy fingers on the hangboard instead of lifting off the floor1:30:24 – Dan’s recommended protocol for me to activate my lazy fingers1:35:52 – Stealing ideas from arm wrestlers, and why Dan loves Fontainebleau1:38:53 – Meeting Tim Doyle in Font1:39:57 – Focusing on weaknesses vs. strengths, and trying to tick the county1:46:35 – Dan’s top finger training exercise recommendation1:48:11 – Dan’s thoughts on wrist training1:53:01 – Meat hooks and kneebars1:59:19 – Why Dan wishes he had focused on building an athletic foundation as a younger athlete2:03:34 – Dan’s training goals, his thoughts on the campus board, and goal boulders in the Lakes2:13:13 – Potential topics for a round 2 (let us know what you want to hear more about!)2:15:02 – Dan’s final thoughts on splitting the grip and waking up lazy fingers2:16:49 – Dan’s goals for me with my finger training

19 Syys 20222h 23min

Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training. We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power.Listen to more top episodes about Mind/Mindset!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alice-haferNuggets:0:05:35 – Perfectionism in writing and interviewing0:09:30 – What Alice learned from her friend Brad Gobright0:13:05 – Using second-tier routes to stretch our comfort zone0:14:07 – “Fear is a signal that you are becoming a better climber.”0:16:45 – Getting covid twice in three weeks0:18:03 – Setting boundaries for ourselves, and reaching our higher selves0:20:27 – What expectations are0:21:05 – Patron question from Ryan: Can you share a favorite story about Brad Gobright?0:26:51 – Alice’s climbing journey, getting sick after her trip to Madagascar, her dad’s stroke, and carrying emotional weight0:34:23 – How her relationship with climbing has evolved, and seeing Brad’s passion for climbing0:37:00 – Pro climbers aren’t always sending, and passion and motivation0:39:42 – How Jonathan Siegrist stays psyched, thinking smaller within our constraints, and pivoting0:45:34 – Living in the UK, and being most comfortable with what you spend the most time doing0:49:33 – “Who am I outside of climbing?”0:52:31 – Finding a new identity, and Alice’s experience with depression0:58:35 – Detaching your identity from whatever you are dealing with, and changing your thought and behavior patterns1:02:42 – Examining the three biggest beliefs you have about yourself, and valuing the climbing experience1:05:18 – Neuroplasticity, and rewriting our self-beliefs1:12:12 – Focusing on process over outcome1:15:55 – Climbing matters1:18:15 – Exposing yourself to new ideas, and saying “stop” to negative thoughts1:22:07 – “I have plenty of time.”1:23:55 – Setting clear and small goals, letting go of perfectionism, and giving ourselves permission to fail1:36:06 – Awareness, pausing, and intervening1:41:18 – Struggling with belonging, finding supportive friends, and putting your best effort forward1:46:03 – The pressure that comes with success, and focusing on becoming a better athlete1:54:47 – The value in trying hard projects1:57:42 – How Alice uses goals to give her focus1:59:10 – What Alice learned from trying Weekend at Bernies (5.14a or b)2:01:35 – Jonathan Siegrist’s 50:50 split, and why balancing projecting with sending easier routes is important for motivation2:05:19 – How Alice is training her weaknesses for Weekend at Bernies2:08:55 – Using box jumps to train power for climbing, and catching holds with a firm body2:13:01 – Thoughts on campusing vs. fast pull-ups for power2:15:35 – How little volume it takes to get stronger, and my story with pistol squats2:16:27 – Mental training for fast results, and how Alice sent her second 5.14 by focusing on effort2:20:23 – “You quit when you stop learning.”2:21:40 – Patron question from Fiona: Can we train our mental game? How do we measure progress?2:25:39 – Everyone needs something different when it comes to mental training2:26:41 – How to measure mental training progress2:29:00 – Where to connect with Alice2:30:43 – Alice’s final advice for listeners2:36:34 – Feeling like a superhero, and the story of sending her second 5.14

12 Syys 20222h 49min

Sam Van Boxtel is a social media expert and the founder of Climbers Crag. We talked about the business side of being a content creator, why Instagram is the best platform for the climbing industry right now, the importance of having a strong “why”, why posts go viral, how to optimize for growth, creating value on social media, playing the game, and the balance between quality and success.Climbers Crag:climberscrag.comCheck out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Shortform!shortform.com/nuggetUse this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-van-boxtelNuggets:0:06:57 – Organizing the important stuff, and putting systems in place0:11:11 – Overview of our conversation0:13:30 – Soccer, discovering climbing, and losing 20-30 lbs to become a route setter0:17:14 – Sam’s ability to focus on his goals, and why he got into business0:20:03 – Moving up the chain with route setting0:22:20 – How Sam got into social media, and getting 1000+ followers in less than a month0:24:11 – The business side of being a content creator0:26:57 – Pivoting from route setting to starting Climbers Crag, and how Sam teamed up with Tom Randall0:37:03 – What Climbers Crag is today0:40:41 – The organic next step0:41:58 – Summary of everything so far, and Climbers Crag’s two main services as an agency0:45:47 – The Climber’s Crag team, and why Sam reduced the size of his team0:46:58 – Who this is worthwhile for, and having a strong “why”0:53:13 – The two categories of individuals trying to grow their Instagram following, and having a clear funnel0:59:17 – Why I decided to make the Nugget for a year before trying to monetize, and making sure you love 80-90% of what you’re doing1:01:45 – “Goodwill compounds faster than revenue.”1:02:19 – Virality and customer surplus1:06:13 – The sustainability/longevity of the different social media platforms, supply and demand, why reels go viral, and why Instagram is king1:12:41 – Why Sam pressed pause on TikTok for Climbers Crag1:18:25 – Real numbers for Instagram growth goals, and where Sam thinks brands should be with Instagram before adding another platform1:20:22 – Another summary, and using Instagram as a jumping-off point1:23:05 – Crux Academy, and why Sam tries to talk most of his clients out of trying to grow on YouTube1:24:54 – My current strategy for The Nugget’s Instagram, balancing viral, brand, and value posts, and having a CTA (call to action) strategy1:32:17 – Sam’s recommendations for me to grow to 100k followers, and the two factors for growth1:45:11 – Best practices for resharing content from an ethical standpoint1:50:08 – Best time of day to post1:52:15 – Hashtags, optimizing content for growth on Instagram, and removing exit points1:59:48 – Watchtime and engagement2:02:08 – Using Capcut for Reels2:05:09 – Playing the game, and the difference between quality and success on a social media platform2:12:13 – Hiding the vegetables2:13:30 – Wrap up and how to connect with Sam

5 Syys 20222h 17min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:32:46.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingJonathan’s Other Episodes:EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist (Apr 20, 2020)EP 36: Climb Strong Team (Sept 21, 2020)Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist (Nov 12, 2020)

31 Elo 202229min

Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neil-greshamNuggets:0:05:45 – The Mythical Challenge0:18:15 – “Flitting” between different styles of climbing to keep motivation high0:20:25 – Improving two sport grades and one trad grade between the ages of 45 and 50, and what it would take to climb 9a (14d)0:24:49 – Feeling satisfied after climbing Lexicon (E11)0:27:33 – Olympians, and being a series of sliders0:30:08 – Lexicon breakdown, and Steve McClure’s 80-foot whipper0:39:10 – Why is bold trad climbing so glorified in the UK? And the “rules” for trad areas vs. bolted areas0:46:02 – Patron question from Elina, why Neil used ballet to train for Lexicon, and looking outside the box for ways to improve0:50:45 – Struggling to improve at climbing, and how that led to coaching0:58:52 – “People don’t realize how hard they can climb.”1:01:47 – Goal setting and finishing game1:06:33 – Getting more specific with your goals, and being willing to learn from each project1:12:19 – The tactical and psychological skills in redpointing, and how many of the top climbers just go climbing1:14:59 – Don’t expect your project to feel easy1:16:31 – Unlocking things on your project when you’re feeling weak1:21:24 – “Hard routes have been climbed in every conceivable mindset.” - Dave MacLeod1:22:57 – Patron question from Doug: What old-school training methods get overlooked nowadays? What modern training methods got overlooked back then?1:25:15 – Injury prevention, and extensor training for stronger fingers1:30:23 – Rings and TRX training1:32:42 – Neil’s go-to exercises on the rings/TRX, and feeling like an athlete after discovering rings training1:34:29 – How to combine extensor training with your other training and climbing, and Adam Ondra’s rule for antagonist training1:36:57 – Neil’s strength protocol for finger extensor training1:39:23 – How to incorporate rings or TRX training into your climbing and training, and finding the appropriate amount1:44:41 – Patron question from Jan: What should climbers who started at a later age (30s) focus on to improve, and would that be different from someone who started in their 20s?1:46:59 – Should beginners use hangboards?1:49:31 – How Neil and I both developed a weakness in the half crimp grip by avoiding the hangboard early on1:52:56 – “Stick the training in the bank.”1:56:58 – The way to make killer gains in your hangboarding: stop climbing! (And which types of climbers benefit from hangboarding)2:01:49 – Dan Varian from Beastmaker, and other people who have influenced Neil’s climbing and training2:02:59 – How to combine hangboarding with climbing to make gains over the long term2:06:51 – How Neil addressed his weakness in the half crimp, and his thoughts on full crimping on the hangboard2:11:08 – Thumb crimping2:14:37 – Pinkie wrapping three-finger crimps, and how everything we do should be built up incrementally2:16:34 – Why Neil’s climbing shot up between ages 45 and 502:23:33 – Neil’s golden rule in coaching, and taking breaks from structured training2:27:33 – Finding balance2:30:58 – A teaser for the keto diet conversation (let us know if you want to hear us talk about that!)2:31:39 – Where to connect with Neil

29 Elo 20222h 35min

Dr. Rebecca Williams is a clinical psychologist, performance coach, and the author of Climb Smarter. We talked about the deeper fears that often underlie fear of falling, the underdeveloped self-soothing system, breathing exercises to reduce anxiety, pre-climb routines, meditation and mindfulness, and the benefits of shifting our focus from achievement to mastery.Climb Smarter:Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)Buy from Sequoia Books  (best if you are in the UK or Europe)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Shortform!shortform.com/nuggetUse this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/rebecca-williamsNuggets:0:07:32 – Kids0:09:29 – Rebecca’s background in clinical psychology0:13:04 – Why Rebecca quit gymnastics as a teenager0:17:55 – How the mental blocks from gymnastics came back to haunt her as a climber0:20:17 – The deeper fears at the roots of fear of falling, and trust and control0:24:30 – Why it’s important to know where your fear of falling comes from, and the woman with the worm phobia0:28:32 – Diving deeper into different fears0:30:54 – Fear of fear, and learning to tolerate difficult feelings0:33:14 – Learning to tolerate difficult emotions0:37:09 – My (Steven’s) own experience with fear of falling when I started sport climbing, and tools for letting go of control0:44:16 – The overdeveloped drive and threat systems, and the underdeveloped self-soothing system0:46:32 – “We’re always conquering”, common narratives, and why fear of falling is rational0:53:16 – Rebecca’s mental warmup, and bringing arousal levels down0:58:30 – Not wanting to stray from “normal”1:03:04 – Introducing doubts to our assumptions1:08:38 – Breathing exercises to bring down arousal and anxiety1:14:31 – Pre-climb routines, focusing before a send attempt, and mindfulness as an attitude1:19:16 – Meditation and why it’s useful1:24:31 – What practicing mindfulness has done for me (Steven) and how it has impacted my life1:28:14 – “Falling practice is the last thing you do, and not the first thing you do.”1:30:01 – Does practicing non-attachment take away our drive? And shifting our focus from achievement to mastery1:33:00 – Why Rebecca decided to write her book Smart Climbing1:37:05 – The nutrition chapter of the book, and the link between perfectionism and eating disorders1:43:45 – What Rebecca is currently working on in her own climbing (related to mental game)1:48:07 – Who the book is for, and where to buy it1:49:25 – What’s next for Rebecca1:50:34 – Rediscovering your early excitement for climbing

22 Elo 20221h 55min

Ryan Devlin is a television actor, entrepreneur, philanthropist, rock climber, and host of his new podcast The Struggle Climbing Show. We talked about parallels between climbing and being a TV actor, the role of chemistry in dating, how to deal with rejection, progressing from 11b to 12c in a year in his 40s, and biggest takeaways from interviewing top climbers on his podcast.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Feals!feals.com/NUGGETUse this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ryan-devlinNuggets:0:07:15 – My Parent’s Basement Productions0:09:35 – Junk food0:12:20 – Returning to the Midwest0:17:59 – How far Midwesterners commute to climb at the Red River Gorge0:20:36 – The TV show ‘Are You the One?’, and why you might recognize Ryan in the grocery store0:30:08 – A question from Allison Vest, and the role of chemistry in dating0:37:20 – Similarities between the climbing world and the TV/acting world, and creating your own luck0:43:20 – How Ryan deals with rejection, and building happiness that is not based on outcomes0:49:19 – Being afraid of falling, Ryan’s first-ever trad lead, and how climbing has impacted his acting (and his life)0:56:05 – How Ryan got into climbing, and his first day climbing at Tahquitz1:07:25 – Getting into sport climbing and training in his 40s, and progressing from 11b to 12c in a year1:16:50 – Early lightbulb moments in Ryan’s training journey1:23:11 – Getting more days in at the crag1:29:44 – Why Ryan decided to create The Struggle Climbing Show1:38:00 – How the pros relate to struggle, and what the rest of us can learn from that1:48:39 – Drinking from a firehose of information, and letting go of finding “the best way” to train1:55:21 – Mental game, fear, gratitude, and Alex Honnold and Hazel Findlay’s mental approaches2:00:01 – Hollywood love scenes, and being starstruck by Lynn Hill and Harrison Ford2:07:53 – Podcasting and community2:10:17 – Starting a Forest School, and looking at the world through kids' eyes2:14:56 – Camping, van windows, and blackout curtains2:18:33 – Vanlife, and climbing with Jordan Cannon and Alex Honnold2:30:24 – The climbing experience scales2:31:29 – Ryan’s hopes and dreams as a rock climber2:37:50 – Ryan’s plans for Season 2 of The Struggle Climbing Show2:44:30 – Wrap up

15 Elo 20222h 49min

Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of The Climbing Bible. We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back climbers at different levels, finger strength vs. general strength, mental strengths that separate climbers, strategies for improving technique, and the Play Box vs. the Think Box.The Climbing Bible:Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)Buy from AdventureBooks (best if you are in the UK or Europe)Check out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-and-martinNuggets:0:07:56 – Where we’re all tuning in from0:09:29 – Stian and Martin introduce each other0:17:14 – What Stain and Martin admire about one another0:22:43 – Stian’s proudest climbing accomplishments0:26:29 – Stian’s process of projecting his hardest route (FA of a new 9a)0:31:04 – A day in Martin’s life0:33:16 – The pros and cons of being a route setter, and trying to balance route setting with climbing0:38:24 – Martin’s proudest climbing accomplishments0:43:31 – Writing The Climbing Bible, and how the book got its name0:46:40 – Why The Climbing Bible was published as two different books, and how they interact with one another0:48:58 – Who the books are for0:52:06 – Question from Rannveig: When coaching, how do you balance the physical, technical, and mental sides of the sport?0:55:29 – The shortcomings of modern gyms, and the value of making up your own boulders1:02:09 – Stian’s thoughts on what holds climbers back from breaking into 5.11 or 5.121:04:28 – The importance of different physical characteristics for climbing performance, and finger strength vs. general strength1:12:22 – The 9c test, and the benefits and limitations of physical assessments1:20:00 – Mental strengths that separate climbers with the same physical and technical abilities, and tapping into aggression1:29:21 – How Stian and Martin have worked on improving their own technical abilities1:37:39 – Spray wall training vs. commercial gym sets, and separating strength sessions from technical slab sessions1:50:00 – Separating indoor and outdoor climbing1:51:23 – Another question from Rannveig: What are the biggest gimmicks in climbing and training right now, and what old-school methods are the most legit?1:56:51 – “Never respect grades.”2:01:03 – The Play Box vs. the Think Box, and the story of Stian’s FA of Eurofighter V13/14 (8B/+)2:11:06 – What to expect if you buy The Climbing Bible2:14:49 – We should be movement optimists2:16:47 – Where to buy the book, and wrap up

8 Elo 20222h 21min