EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens, his diet and sleep routines, tips for climbing at night, the pivotal moments that change our lives forever, and more.

The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com

The NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-bergey

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:24) – When to call it on a project

(00:08:40) – Summer mode

(00:10:27) – The Martin Keller approach

(00:14:34) – Steven’s approach

(00:17:53) – The outdoor gear

(00:24:10) – Anthem

(00:29:26) – Adapting to fingery climbing

(00:33:26) – Diet

(00:37:16) – Thoughts on keto & carnivore

(00:42:38) – Still improving

(00:43:59) – TB2

(00:49:35) – More about diet

(00:58:12) – Sleep

(01:02:20) – Snacking & when he climbs

(01:03:36) – Work & night climbing

(01:09:08) – Light tips

(01:11:49) – Tea & coffee

(01:15:59) – Put in the time

(01:18:56) – Suspend your disbelief

(01:21:16) – Pivotal moments

(01:28:59) – Wrap up

Jaksot(382)

EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers

EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist who specializes in climbing injury rehab and prevention. We talked about freestyle rapping, the most common injuries in rock climbing, how to prevent knee, shoul...

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EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as ...

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EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching

EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching

Lea Volpe is a paraclimber for Great Britain and a 2x medalist at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships. Lea holds down a 9-5 job working in health policy, coaches junior athletes, and is essentia...

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EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up

EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up

Dr. Carrie Cooper is a former professional climber and a doctor of physical therapy. We talked about her background in gymnastics and dance, bouldering in the early 2000s, her path to physical therapy...

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EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast

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Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)

Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Joe Kinder. I sat down with Joe in a cave in Utah to talk about his process for sending his new route ‘Mamaja...

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EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods

EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods

Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicit...

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EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down

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