EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

Kerwin Loukusa lives in Leavenworth, WA, and sent his first V12 and V13 last year while juggling a full-time job, wife, and two young kids. We talked about how he improved his flexibility to send the Freerider in Yosemite, bouldering after having kids, home wall training, the key to building persistent strength, bodyweight manipulation, energy availability, beginner's mind, feeling vs. analysing, weather forecasting hacks, how dew point affects climbing conditions, and much more. A lot of nuggets in this one.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kerwin-loukusa

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:05) – Flexibility journey

(00:08:08) – Identifying limiting factors

(00:10:38) – Stemming flexibility continued

(00:16:39) – Freerider & Father TIme

(00:24:15) – Bouldering after kids

(00:26:56) – Mountain running & cardio

(00:40:00) – Leveling up to V12 and V13

(00:48:07) – Home wall training

(01:09:54) – Off-the-wall training

(01:11:28) – Building persistent strength

(01:16:45) – Pillars 1-3: Proximetry, Rest, & Nutrition

(01:32:23) – Know yourself

(01:35:06) – Bodyweight & energy availability

(01:48:13) – Pillar 4: Mindset

(02:01:35) – Slingblade V13

(02:10:03) – An obsessive brain

(02:14:25) – Obstacles & growth

(02:20:43) – Don’t get injured

(02:23:42) – Slow & steady gains

(02:32:46) – Ease into it

(02:37:32) – Intuition & beta iteration

(02:45:09) – Beginner's mind

(02:50:39) – Feeling vs. analyzing

(02:54:26) – Power spots

(03:00:30) – Weather forecasting

(03:18:03) – Dew point

(03:22:43) – Cold rock

(03:26:36) – Morning climbing

(03:38:36) – Upcoming goals

(03:40:50) – Mentorship & stewardship

(03:46:18) – Public vs. private land

Jaksot(381)

EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psycholo...

9 Joulu 20243h 13min

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, se...

2 Joulu 20242h 25min

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with M...

25 Marras 20241h 58min

EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinven...

18 Marras 20242h 28min

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux...

11 Marras 20242h 14min

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can...

4 Marras 202435min

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue p...

28 Loka 20241h 22min

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu

Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign...

23 Loka 20242h 56min

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