EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects

Kerwin Loukusa lives in Leavenworth, WA, and sent his first V12 and V13 last year while juggling a full-time job, wife, and two young kids. We talked about how he improved his flexibility to send the Freerider in Yosemite, bouldering after having kids, home wall training, the key to building persistent strength, bodyweight manipulation, energy availability, beginner's mind, feeling vs. analysing, weather forecasting hacks, how dew point affects climbing conditions, and much more. A lot of nuggets in this one.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kerwin-loukusa

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:05) – Flexibility journey

(00:08:08) – Identifying limiting factors

(00:10:38) – Stemming flexibility continued

(00:16:39) – Freerider & Father TIme

(00:24:15) – Bouldering after kids

(00:26:56) – Mountain running & cardio

(00:40:00) – Leveling up to V12 and V13

(00:48:07) – Home wall training

(01:09:54) – Off-the-wall training

(01:11:28) – Building persistent strength

(01:16:45) – Pillars 1-3: Proximetry, Rest, & Nutrition

(01:32:23) – Know yourself

(01:35:06) – Bodyweight & energy availability

(01:48:13) – Pillar 4: Mindset

(02:01:35) – Slingblade V13

(02:10:03) – An obsessive brain

(02:14:25) – Obstacles & growth

(02:20:43) – Don’t get injured

(02:23:42) – Slow & steady gains

(02:32:46) – Ease into it

(02:37:32) – Intuition & beta iteration

(02:45:09) – Beginner's mind

(02:50:39) – Feeling vs. analyzing

(02:54:26) – Power spots

(03:00:30) – Weather forecasting

(03:18:03) – Dew point

(03:22:43) – Cold rock

(03:26:36) – Morning climbing

(03:38:36) – Upcoming goals

(03:40:50) – Mentorship & stewardship

(03:46:18) – Public vs. private land

Jaksot(381)

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition,...

21 Loka 20241h 38min

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)

Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs,...

17 Loka 202432min

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the em...

14 Loka 20241h 16min

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her ...

7 Loka 20242h 3min

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. ...

30 Syys 20241h 41min

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, w...

23 Syys 20241h 18min

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

Another phone call with Ron Kauk.Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org

19 Syys 202443min

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Syys 20241h 32min

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