EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading

EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading

Heth Jennings is a Physical Therapist and Functional Medicine Practitioner who has been studying pain for over 20+ years. We talked about where pain comes from, how the brain uses pain to protect us, why chronic pain isn’t “just in our head”, how to rehab finger and elbow injuries, and other lifestyle interventions that help with recovery.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/heth-jennings

Nuggets:

4:10 – Heth’s background in physical therapy, functional medicine, and pain science

6:55 – A new paradigm for understanding pain

8:22 – “It’s all in my head.” and “It’s always real.”

9:40 – Lorimer Moseley, and the hammer in the neck story

14:50 – Red light blue light

15:55 – The leg scratch

17:40 – Chronic vs acute pain

21:09 – The mountain illustration of tissue capacity, the pain buffer, and how the brain’s overprotection leads to chronic pain

24:19 – Rehabbing chronic elbow pain

28:25 – Graded motor imagery using the Recognize App, visualization, and mirror therapy

36:35 – “The point is always to get people back to moving.”

37:58 – Heth’s example of the brain loving us too much, and removing fear

41:00 – The role of inflammation, assessing tissue damage, and rehabbing fingers and elbows

47:28 – Heth’s recent finger injury, and how he rehabbed it

50:35 – “Don’t flare up, but when you do, don’t freak out about it.”

51:48 – What to do after a flare-up

53:31 – Heth’s protocol for rehabbing his finger injury

56:02 – The theory behind eccentrics for tendon injury rehab

57:04 – How do address different types of finger injuries

59:27 – Heth’s thoughts on climbing open-handed while recovering from a pulley injury

1:01:03 – Mirror therapy for amputees

1:02:50 – Elbow rehab

1:07:52 – Preventing recurring injuries, giving our bodies credit, and bioplasticity

1:15:32 – What Heth has learned from his injuries, how he plans to move forward, and collagen + vitamin C

1:19:50 – Heth’s thoughts on supplemental exercises for injury prevention

1:23:57 – Heth’s thoughts on including finger ups or other isotonic exercises

1:25:32 – Chronic inflammation, gut health, and stress

1:28:35 – Why Heth recommends a low carb diet for many of his clients

1:32:33 – Heth’s thoughts on carbs for metabolically healthy people and athletes

1:38:37 – Carb backloading

1:44:39 – Heth’s thoughts on counting macros and daily protein

1:47:56 – Krispy Cream doughnuts, birthday cake, and popcorn and coke

1:50:28 – Breathing and meditation, accepting where we are, and being kind to ourselves

1:57:00 – Heth’s website, and social media

2:00:26 – Gratitude

Jaksot(379)

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love

Justin Nault is a nutritional therapist who has helped thousands of clients escape our broken healthcare system and reclaim their health. We talked about his previous life as a professional musician and his own health journey, as well as the origins of allopathic medicine, seed oils and the hydroelectric dam analogy, what’s wrong with rodent studies and nutrition research, how to eat for optimal energy, leanness and performance, longevity in sports, setting 90 years of goals, the politicization of health, finding self-love, and much more. You can learn more about Justin at justinnault.com/stevenMaui Nui Venison (The Healthiest Red Meat on the Planet)mauinuivenison.com/stevenNADS (Men's Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% off NADSHeadspace (Meditation App)Try it for Free for 14 DaysSupport Something Different on Patreonpatreon.com/somethingdiffpodTimestamps:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:04) – Justin’s life as a professional musician(00:08:10) – The costume(00:13:34) – Escapism(00:17:58) – Rocketman(00:20:18) – Collecting data from childhood(00:24:46) – Masochistic fitness(00:28:31) – Justin’s niece(00:33:52) – The origins of allopathic medicine(00:35:23) – The limitations of nutrition science(00:37:20) – Seed oils(00:41:44) – The hydroelectric dam analogy(00:46:38) – PUFAs, Omega-6s, & Omega-3s(00:48:31) – Hyperphysiological doses, & fat loss(00:54:37) – A cheap way to check your metabolic rate(00:56:17) – What happened to Primal Kitchen(01:01:24) – Capitalism is demand-driven(01:05:28) – Whose funnel am I in?(01:08:44) – Justin’s staple foods(01:10:59) – Cholesterol & thyroid health(01:19:21) – Carbs & saturated fat(01:24:20) – Calories, paleo, & metabolic rate(01:30:01) – Food is data(01:33:17) – Energy flux(01:38:06) – No more sugar cravings(01:41:17) – Architect of freedom(01:45:45) – Thyroid, carb sources, & dairy(01:49:11) – Fiber & blood glucose(01:50:16) – Sugar(01:57:07) – Fructose & fruit juice(01:59:24) – Rodent studies & nutrition research(02:04:41) – The illusion of authority(02:10:07) – The politicization of health(02:13:56) – Covid(02:21:56) – A journey of self-love(02:33:44) – Psychadelics & non-duality(02:37:46) – Is it working(02:45:07) – Top 5 daily prometabolic habits(02:48:49) – Equatorial living(02:51:33) – Leanness & performance(03:00:54) – Longevity in sports(03:03:16) – Justin’s athletic life(03:05:32) – 90 years of goals(03:08:05) – Where to find Justin

21 Touko 3h 13min

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving

Facundo Langbehn is a Chilean-American boulderer and sport climber. We talked about sending his dream project The Nest V15, moving to Seattle, the WHY behind hard climbing, becoming the best version of yourself, his ideal training week, recovery tips, cardio, his optimistic view of climbing media, his goal to be intentional in all things, projecting tactics, hard projects in WA and Chile, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.The GRINDS Program:thenuggetclimbing.comEnter your email to get a free PDF and log sheetMad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/facundo-langbehnNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – Breakfast & coffee(00:03:58) – Expression & language(00:06:39) – Climbing background(00:11:28) – Work(00:16:34) – Moving to Seattle(00:19:02) – Growing up in Chile(00:24:38) – Why(00:45:16) – The mental battle(00:51:12) – Exposure to hard boulders(00:55:00) – Hard projects in WA & Chile(00:57:48) – Scarcity & value(01:02:10) – Childhood(01:08:00) – Fast-paced society(01:10:28) – The character behind climbers(01:12:13) – Better storytelling(01:20:21) – Intentional(01:24:53) – My approach to improving(01:29:24) – Facundo’s approach to improving(01:35:35) – Projecting tactics(01:37:56) – Long careers(01:40:38) – Always peaking(01:44:05) – Facu’s ideal training week(01:51:15) – Recovery & cardio(01:59:02) – Best version all around(02:00:50) – Intentional continued(02:05:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

12 Touko 2h 8min

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More

Old friends and climbing partners Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt join me for a nice, long listener Q&A and chat. This one was a blast.You can listen to the full thing by becoming a paid subscriber on Apple Podcasts or Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

9 Touko 38min

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road

Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and website. We talked about his life before the road, the vehicles he’s lived in, the best budget options he’s found, essentials for $100 or less, heating systems, bathroom options, cooking tips, and much more.GSI Outdoors:Camp StovesGoSun:Solar CoolersOutdoorsy:Rent a Van or RV for your next adventure!Ignik:Sustainable Campfire Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bob-wellsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:39) – Bob’s background (00:04:36) – Life before the road(00:05:38) – Bob’s shed(00:09:39) – Big city vanlife  (00:15:38) – Full time vanlife(00:17:39) – First van(00:21:37) – Emergency bucket  (00:23:41) – City-specific van tips (00:29:40) – Progression of vehicles  (00:34:40) – Freedom on the road(00:38:40) – Most impressive setup(00:40:41) – Clever and unique setup(00:44:52) – Bang for your buck(00:47:57) – Avoiding burnout (00:51:52) – Dogs(00:55:56) – Bob’s future(00:58:57) – Practical advice for road life  (01:05:53) – $100 or less essentials (01:07:54) – Heating systems (01:10:55) – Van or truck tent canopy (01:15:45) – Longest trip in one week(01:17:43) – Beauty of Moab (01:19:43) – Where to find Bob

28 Huhti 1h 21min

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven’t seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 vs. outdoor bouldering, dream lines, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sean-houchins-mccallumNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:16) – Unsynthesized(00:04:50) – Sending every classic in 4 months(00:07:02) – Limit projects every day(00:09:31) – Sean vs. Noah Wheeler(00:11:36) – Is boarding its own sport?(00:16:04) – Becoming a board climber(00:17:30) – Sean’s ultimate board proj (You’ve Seen the Butcher at 65º)(00:19:10) – Board tactics(00:21:28) – Why aren’t there V15s or harder on boards?(00:26:14) – Getting outside(00:27:45) – Sean’s dimensions(00:29:24) – Sean’s warms up(00:34:07) – A typical week(00:36:52) – Sean’s projecting tactics(00:40:42) – 2 months on(00:46:52) – Does Sean train his strengths?(00:54:20) – Sean’s weaknesses(00:57:19) – The Spray layout(01:01:41) – TB1 vs. TB2(01:02:49) – Mirroring climbs & the leaderboard(01:07:05) – Intimidating holds on the TB2(01:10:19) – Go-to shoes(01:11:36) – Working & setting(01:17:11) – Outdoor goals(01:18:55) – Jumping up 2 grades after changing his diet(01:26:52) – TB2 vs. outside(01:31:57) – New board companies(01:34:59) – Sport climbing feature(01:38:59) – Dream lines(01:40:17) – Rapid fire questions(02:00:53) – How Low Can You Go?

21 Huhti 2h 8min

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope can be negative, finding true acceptance, meditation, Alexander Technique and  Feldenkrais Method, finding happiness within, why love is the key to life, and three sentences she tells herself every day. You can work with Tess at motion-coaching.beThe NUG 👉 frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugTindeq 👉 tindeq.com  (Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order)The GRINDS Program 👉 thenuggetclimbing.comBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tess-driessensNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:57) – The North Pole(00:16:14) – Gymnastics & childhood(00:22:38) – Early climbing(00:24:32) – 5 herniated discs(00:41:16) – Developing chronic pain(00:46:57) – Pain drugs & alternatives(00:52:39) – Hope, expectations, & acceptance(00:57:24) – A healing sabatical(01:05:01) – A healing sabatical continued(01:10:20) – Meditation(01:12:38) – Alexander Technique & Feldenkrais Method(01:18:37) – Tools for chronic pain(01:27:39) – Happiness within(01:33:55) – Meditation continued(01:38:45) – Love(01:42:34) – Tess’ three sentences(01:48:52) – Long covid(01:58:20) – Sending 8a without physical training(02:02:53) – Visualization(02:09:24) – Low-load training(02:11:06) – Adaptability & taking control(02:12:41) – Recovery tips(02:17:55) – Investing in relaxation(02:19:55) – Heart coherence breathing(02:26:10) – Quotes & gratitude(02:30:31) – Closing questions

15 Huhti 2h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalieNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:03) – Keith’s background(00:10:05) – Natalie’s background(00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study(00:17:56) – Natalie’s experience with “Abrahangs”(00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective(00:22:41) – Exciting new studies(00:32:09) – What’s happening with “Abrahangs”?(00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol?(00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness(00:57:00) – Recommendations(01:06:03) – A cautionary tale(01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics(01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?(01:15:42) – Summary(01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie’s dream studies(01:19:25) – Wrap up

7 Huhti 1h 23min

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out?Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/connor-bodinNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:11) – The 100-Day Experiment(00:11:14) – The results (Critical Force & climbing)(00:20:07) – High-Low training(00:24:11) – The benefit of simplicity(The following topics are available for Patrons only)(00:29:17) – Junk mileage vs. movement practice(00:35:33) – Plans for future experiments(00:38:11) – The power of the pull-up(00:44:35) – Building your own board(00:48:46) – The benefits of an adjustable wall(00:52:05) – Climbing shoes(00:58:56) – Connor’s next experiment(01:03:36) – Dave MacLeod’s experiment(01:10:34) – Chris Sommer’s interview with Tim Ferriss(01:13:22) – One-arm vs. two-arm hanging(01:19:30) – Patron Spotlights(01:21:09) – Tough to be a pro(01:24:19) – Rekindled psych

1 Huhti 29min

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