EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage, and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers.

Discount code:

“NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-2

Nuggets:

01:23 – Differences between Eric’s training vs. his sons, and why his sons played football

11:40 – Maintaining climbing strength during football season

15:08 – Patreon Question from Eli (advice for parents getting their kids into climbing)

21:20 – Exposing kids to a variety of climbing styles

22:53 – Patron Question from Jordan Cannon (5.14, or free climbing El Cap?), and Eric’s first 5.13c

27:53 – Another Question from Jordan (would you rather see your kids climb 5.15, or free a hard El Cap route)

32:50 – Patron Question from Gunter (how to train pinches and slopers)

39:12 – Learning from other experts and coaches

40:52 – What Eric is most excited about in training for climbing right now, and the Moonboard and other system walls as a game-changer

45:16 – Proper nutrition, PhysiVantage, and protein

50:02 – Crush

52:00 – Collagen, and vegan and whey protein

56:48 – How I think about taking supplements, and replacing beer with collagen ;)

1:01:15 – Why we should eat collagen separate from meals (when we can), and collagen vs. protein timing

1:10:42 – A life’s journey

1:14:07 – Gratitude

Tämä jakso on lisätty Podme-palveluun avoimen RSS-syötteen kautta eikä se ole Podmen omaa tuotantoa. Siksi jakso saattaa sisältää mainontaa.

Jaksot(395)

EP 305: Dr. Mohammad Ashori — The 5 Things That Will Keep You Climbing for Decades

EP 305: Dr. Mohammad Ashori — The 5 Things That Will Keep You Climbing for Decades

Dr. Mohammad Ashori is a board-certified family medicine physician, health coach, and rock climber. We talked about the importance of putting on muscle, how much rest we need between training sessions...

31 Elo 2h 14min

EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)

EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) returns to the podcast to discuss the unique challenges of being tall or short in climbing. We talk about the disadvantages tall climbers face, how injury risk and t...

18 Elo 2h 12min

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering speci...

13 Heinä 1h 43min

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest rout...

29 Kesä 1h 42min

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who...

8 Kesä 2h 10min

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Touko 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Touko 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Huhti 2h 7min

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