EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage, and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers.

Discount code:

“NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-2

Nuggets:

01:23 – Differences between Eric’s training vs. his sons, and why his sons played football

11:40 – Maintaining climbing strength during football season

15:08 – Patreon Question from Eli (advice for parents getting their kids into climbing)

21:20 – Exposing kids to a variety of climbing styles

22:53 – Patron Question from Jordan Cannon (5.14, or free climbing El Cap?), and Eric’s first 5.13c

27:53 – Another Question from Jordan (would you rather see your kids climb 5.15, or free a hard El Cap route)

32:50 – Patron Question from Gunter (how to train pinches and slopers)

39:12 – Learning from other experts and coaches

40:52 – What Eric is most excited about in training for climbing right now, and the Moonboard and other system walls as a game-changer

45:16 – Proper nutrition, PhysiVantage, and protein

50:02 – Crush

52:00 – Collagen, and vegan and whey protein

56:48 – How I think about taking supplements, and replacing beer with collagen ;)

1:01:15 – Why we should eat collagen separate from meals (when we can), and collagen vs. protein timing

1:10:42 – A life’s journey

1:14:07 – Gratitude

Jaksot(382)

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope...

15 Huhti 20252h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent re...

7 Huhti 20251h 23min

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climb...

1 Huhti 202529min

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her ...

24 Maalis 20252h 18min

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing...

17 Maalis 20251h 55min

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project,...

10 Maalis 20251h 51min

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicit...

3 Maalis 20252h 40min

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity...

24 Helmi 20252h

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