EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-long

Nuggets:

3:33 – Nose picking, John’s nickname “Largo”, growing up in Indio CA, and being a part of two worlds

6:56 – The state of climbing in 1953, John’s early sports, white water rafting, and hearing stories about climbing

10:37 – Getting hooked on climbing

12:07 – Climbing at Tahquitz Rock in 1971, and jumping on board with new-age climbing

17:47 – Paisano Overhang

30:23 – Hangover

38:43 – Life in Yosemite in the 70s, and the rise of free climbing

47:04 – Camp 4 as a Babylon of rogues and boys club

49:28 – Jim Bridwell

54:23 – The Nose in a day

59:58 – Question from Ron: The bivy at the base of the Gold Wall.

1:04:08 – The cafeteria

1:06:54 – The Bob Lock Memorial Route

1:13:11 – Transitioning away from being “Joe Climber”

1:15:18 – Patron Question from Logan: Most humbling climbing moment?

1:19:12 – The present vs. the past, and gravity as the great leveler

1:21:56 – Question from Lena: What is more valuable in climbing, being a jack of all trades or a master of one?

1:24:05 – Writing, Hollywood, and Rogue’s Babylon

1:30:19 – John’s writing practice

1:32:01 – Alcoholism and substance abuse

1:45:01 – Icarus Syndrome

1:53:03 – Gifts and wrinkles

1:54:01 – Gratitude

Jaksot(382)

EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass

EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass

Nic Rummel is an applied mathematician and expert boulderer. Ethan Pringle joins as co-host for another fun episode from Rocklands. We talked about embracing his nickname “Thick Nic”, lessons from wor...

4 Syys 20233h 1min

EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road

EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road

Jenn DeBellis is an elite-level boulderer and software engineer. We sat down in Rocklands and talked about her biggest lessons from childhood gymnastics and collegiate athletics, trying V13s in Magic ...

28 Elo 20232h 23min

EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels

EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels

Carlos Tkacz returns and is joined by his partner Steph Letourneau for a sitdown here in Rocklands. We talked about their diet habits, lessons from their 7 trips to Rocklands, learning to try harder, ...

21 Elo 20233h 5min

EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends

EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends

It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoke...

14 Elo 20232h 35min

EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands

EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands

It’s a Northeast takeover here in Rocklands! Austin Hoyt returns to the podcast and is joined by Troy Fauteux and Bryce Viola. The boys sat down with me and Ethan Pringle for a fireside chat at our ca...

7 Elo 20232h 9min

EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”

EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”

Cat Runner is the winner of the HBO show The Climb. Cat sat down with me and Ethan Pringle at our cabin here in Rocklands to talk about what his life has looked like after The Climb, his experience fi...

31 Heinä 20232h 53min

Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! Ollie Torr returns to answer questions from Patrons! If you enjoyed my first episode with Ollie, don’t miss this Follow-Up. We discussed critical ...

27 Heinä 202338min

EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad

EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad

Ethan Pringle is back on the podcast! We talked about our first few weeks in Rocklands, the style of climbing here, his plans to try Monkey Wedding 8C, nemesis boulders, micromanaging holds, two habit...

24 Heinä 20232h 26min

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