Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)

In Q&A 4, I tackle patron questions about Hueco round 2 and other goals for 2022, my plans for V12 and 5.14, how my trip to Leavenworth went and plans to return, my favorite features in the van, dating on the road, my remote working setup, what I’ve learned from nearly 100 episodes of the podcast, and making sense of conflicting advice. *Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, and David LahaieBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWebsite Links:Top ListsSteven’s FavoritesShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-4Nuggets:0:00 – Intro and updates7:04 – My Climbing / Training / Goals: 7:14 – Oskar: Tips for night climbing?14:07 – Taylor: Plans for Hueco round 2?16:53 – Casey: Hueco tick list? And what about Rifle?17:57 – Casey: Do you prefer to write your own training programs or to have a coach?18:46 – Casey: Outdoor vs. indoor bouldering performance? Does it matter?21:27 – Casey: Do you like night sessions? Is it hard to fall asleep after?22:52 – Jimmy: Favorite endurance workout on a home wall? 25:43 – Karl: Do you think kneepads change grades?33:12 – Tim: Do you ever climb easy stuff for fun?35:44 – Tyler: Party tricks vs. helpful training?38:14 – Tyler: Dream areas or routes in Canada?38:55 – Andrew: What makes a limit boulder problem “limit”? What makes a perfect repeat “perfect”?42:32 – Shanna: What will you implement from the PCC?46:24 – Jordan: Have you dabbled in trad or multi-pitch climbing?49:44 – Eric: What is the softest 5.14 in the US? Why aren’t you trying it now?51:09 – Nolan: How have you moved past plateaus?53:08 – Nolan: Have you been on JDI yet?54:35 – Conor: Can you tell us about your early climbing and training? What would you change?58:20 – RJB: Where are you on your climbing journey?1:00:57 – Luke: Goals for 2022? How do you go about goalsetting?1:09:06 – Drew: Did you come back to try The Practitioner? And how did it go?1:12:55 – David: Goals in Leavenworth?1:14:37 – Nutrition / Weight Gain:1:14:45 – Karl: Does starch count as sugar?1:17:33 – Angelo: I’m embracing my body type and getting stronger, but when will I stop gaining weight?1:23:15 – Vanlife / Current Lifestyle / Personal Life:1:23:24 – Tyler/Ethan/Luke: Favorite van features? What did you bring but haven’t used? 1:28:03 – Tyler: Can you describe work station in your van? What is your internet setup?1:31:50 – Matt: Any mice in the van?1:32:54 – Jordan: How long have you had your van? Thoughts on dirtbagging now vs. pre-van?1:34:47 – Michael: Pee bottle tips?1:36:54 – Logan: Why did you choose your van?1:39:27 – Howard: Health insurance as a vanlifer?1:41:53 – Nolan: Have you settled into the lifestyle as a full-time vanlifer podcast superstar yet?1:43:59 – Desiree: What are some favorite experiences you get to have living on the road? Pitfalls? Tips?1:49:29 – John: How do you handle long winter nights in the van?1:50:42 – Alexandra: How is a dating life when living in a van?1:53:56 – Shanna: Are you living in the van nonstop? Do you think you can do it indefinitely?1:56:49 – John: Coffee or tea? Method of brewing? Any tats?1:57:45 – Brian: Vanlife product you just can’t get behind?1:58:42 – Brian: What have you given up for vanlife that you miss?1:59:35 – Brian: What alternate life would you be content with?2:00:41 – Daniel: Do you still play video games?2:03:26 – Liam: Did you save up money before quitting your job, or say fuck it? Also, what is your climbing story?2:06:30 – Jonathan: What is your relationship to mindfulness or meditation? How do they affect your life and climbing?2:10:52 – Fun / Funny / Other:2:11:00 – Tyler S: Weirdest smell you’ve had in the van?2:12:03 – Tyler S: Most ridiculous outfit you’ve climbed in? 2:13:27 – Tyler B: Any plans to head out east to climb on southern sandstone? Dream climbing trip?2:14:49 – Tyler B: Who would you like to spend a climbing with?2:15:42 – Brian: Other hobbies?2:17:21 – Brian: Who would you take on a multi-pitch climb?2:18:18 – Podcasting / What I’ve Learned From Episodes:2:18:30 – Ryan: You’ve put out nearly 100 episodes—How do you deal with conflicting advice from all of these badass climbers? 2:24:22 – Tyler: If you could collaborate with any podcast, what would it be?2:25:30 – Tyler: Top 3 podcast guests?2:26:36 – Finn: What interview do you find yourself organically thinking back to the most?  2:28:23 – Garrett: Has the podcast made you a better communicator? Has it made you more confident when meeting people?2:31:30 – Wrapup

13 Joulu 20212h 33min

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyson Schoene. We talked about the recent USA Climbing 2021 National Championships, some of the differences and similarities between his top athletes like Quinn, Melina, Drew, and Sean, keeping training simple, how newer adult climbs can mimic training like a team kid, and finding the important questions in our training and climbing.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:33:49.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingTyson's original episode:EP 29: Tyson Schoene

11 Joulu 202131min

Kyra Condie is a 25-year-old professional climber based out of Salt Lake City, UT, and was one of four climbers to represent the US at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. We talked about whistling, dream broadway roles, training with a fused spine, pursuing the Olympic dream, separating self-worth from results, new tattoos, her cats, cleaning quirks, and thriving in organized chaos.Check out Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyra-condieNuggets:5:24 – Competitive whistling, and comparing her brother to Mozart10:13 – Musical theater, piano, and flute11:12 – Kyra’s dream broadway roll, and Les Miserables13:04 – Allison’s (Vest) role in the broadway scenario13:42 – Trying other sports, and discovering climbing15:52 – Patron question from Atlin: If you were to do an Olympic sport besides climbing, what would you want it to be?17:32 – The variety of climbing as a double edge sword19:22 – Interest in comps vs. outdoor climbing23:24 – An X-ray description of Kyra’s back25:06 – Severe idiopathic scoliosis, getting surgery shortly after finding climbing, and growing 2” overnight28:27 – Seatbelts and toilet paper29:39 – How Kyra trains around her back limitation, and how the changes in setting style have forced her to face it head-on33:30 – Shifting her focus more toward lead, and a recap of Nationals37:28 – Separating self-worth from results40:18 – How Kyra feels about her Tokyo experience46:17 – First Olympian with a spinal fusion (at least as large as hers)48:12 – The Olympics as a goal 50:23 – Enjoying not having a goal after Tokyo, and star chasing52:41 – Plans for a non-climbing vacation, and a slight burnout on competitions 53:58 – Being more open about her back as a disability, and being more relatable to others56:24 – 2024 Olympics?58:26 – How Kyra’s training changed leading up to the Olympics, and thriving in organized chaos1:01:40 – How Kyra’s climbing changed from the prep for the Olympics1:03:28 – Thoughts on speed climbing and psicobloc, and deep water soloing in Vietnam with Tim Emmett1:07:18 – Patron question from Liam: Have you always tried to climb fast in lead? Have you tried other styles?1:09:28 – Training your strengths, and supplementing to address weaknesses1:12:59 – Adopting Pepper and Pika (Kyra’s cats)1:15:30 – Martha the robot-vacuum1:17:08 – Skin and dishwashing gloves, and Kyra’s detergent sponsor1:19:22 – Cleaning/tidiness quarks1:21:23 – Sad movies, and looking for movies on Reddit1:25:08 – Marvel movies, and superheroes1:26:02 – Other favorite movies1:27:21 – Going blonde, and new tattoos1:31:47 – Patron question from Eli: What is your favorite part about your being so deeply ingrained or intertwined with climbing? What is the worst part?1:36:58 – Patron question from Eli: What do you hope the Olympic experience will bring to the broader climbing community?1:38:15 – Olympic memories1:39:14 – What Kyra is most proud of in her climbing career so far, and giving her best1:41:44 – What’s good1:43:07 – What’s next, where to find Kyra, and sharing advice on Reddit1:45:24 – Present focus

6 Joulu 20211h 50min

Austin Hoyt is an 18-year-old kid from New York whose tick list rivals some professional climbers. We talked about balancing school with climbing, what he learned from his first coach, his FA of ‘Flashing Lights’ V14, his love of The Gunks, making old-school climbing films, the support from his dad, and his ongoing goal to develop the bouldering scene in the Northeast.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/austin-hoytNuggets:4:30 – Austin’s bouldering stats at age 18, and how he fits climbing in while going to school8:12 – Some of Austin's typical weekend destinations9:48 – Favorite areas in the Northeast11:38 – How Austin started climbing (Ninja Warrior + ice cream shop), and doing V3 his first week15:11 – Crediting everything to his first coach Charlie, and negative reinforcement18:41 – Drills and spray wall climbing23:34 – Climbing at Powerlines, and getting into doing first ascents (FAs)25:25 – “Chase me”, and what Austin learned from watching his coach Charlie climb27:25 – Finding new boulders in famous areas29:17 – The Gunks, and Austin’s Gunkaholics film series33:40 – The season in The Gunks, and what Austin does when it rains for two weeks34:44 – Balancing projecting, outdoor climbing for volume, and indoor training37:15 – The mental battle of projecting, and the first ascent of ‘Flashing Lights’ V1443:14 – ‘Nuclear War’ V1345:52 – Filmmaking, and Austin’s film equipment and influence 49:18 – College plans and dreams to make adventure films52:00 – Plan for a gap year, and comp training54:42 – Dave Graham56:18 – How Austin trains power on a spray wall 57:30 – Guidance for setting a spray wall, and the skill of making up hard climbs to train on1:00:24 – What a spray wall session looks like, and training strengths vs. weaknesses1:02:28 – Patron Question from Brandon: Do you have any roped ambitions in New England?1:04:22 – Bouldering vs. trad in The Gunks1:05:44 – Patron Question from Will: What is your favorite crag north of The Gunks?1:07:48 – Patron Question from Jack: What is your favorite problem on the Speed Boulder at GB?1:08:55 – Patron Question from Avery: How did you become the master of vert?1:11:25 – Austin’s dad, motocross, and broken bones1:14:13 – How his dad supported him in climbing ‘Nuclear Base’ V141:17:39 – Austin’s new project1:19:18 – Climbing algorithms, “The Formula”, and Austin’s perspective on grades1:22:36 – The dream of becoming a pro climber, the current goal of developing the Northeast, my experiences in Leavenworth, and making lists1:26:05 – Applying to colleges near climbing1:27:07 – Beta Labs, and ideas for building his own business1:30:54 – Shoutouts to his sponsors

29 Marras 20211h 35min

Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO,  putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV, and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life.Check out Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joe-kinderNuggets:6:50 – Clipping chains, Joe’s goals for his trip to Rifle, and the Wicked Cave11:01 – Putting up routes in mediocre rock14:54 – The responsibility and reward of putting up routes, and leaving a legacy18:16 – Establishing vs. FAing a route, and keeping routes open vs. red-tagging22:14 – “It’s a case-to-case scenario.”24:55 – Putting up hard vs. moderate routes, giving back, and being surprised by the difficulty of new lines27:33 – The emotional rollercoaster of projecting, how Joe and I met, and his love of climbing33:04 – Climbing as a drug addiction34:57 – My “addicty” behavior, and why Joe finds Jonathan Siegrist fascinating38:31 – The ebbs and flows, breaks, and comebacks43:59 – Embracing the plan B’s of life44:56 – Lessons from finger injuries49:18 – The Skull Cave, and how ‘Diarrhea Mouth’ got its name52:29 – ‘Kinder Cakes’, proposing grades, and picking limit projects in your style58:20 – Breakdown of ‘Kinder Cakes’, the send, and those special moments1:03:46 – The days after ‘Kinder Cakes’, and needing to work1:06:16 – Sushi celebration1:07:25 – How ‘Kinder Cakes’ stacks up against Joe’s other hardest routes, and “we do what we can”1:09:05 – Joe’s early climbing in New England, and the project-focused approach1:11:18 – Joe’s first experience with training, and planning his year around the Rifle project1:13:39 – Getting training ideas from Eric Horst, Patxi Usobiaga, and developing his own program1:16:37 – ‘Activator’, watching Cam repeat ‘Bone Tomahawk’, and Joe’s year leading up to ‘Kinder Cakes’1:23:47 – Purchasing strength, Joe’s outdoor vs. indoor balance, and more about the ‘Goonies’ project1:28:29 – The ‘Bone Tomahawk’ extension project1:31:47 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 1)1:41:31 – Training as a callus, and taking your time to build it up1:41:46 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 2)1:44:55 – Thoughts about in-season strength maintenance1:46:37 – Keeping an open mind, dropping the ego, and lessons from the Spaniards1:50:10 – “Always try shit.”1:50:39 – Who Joe looks up to in climbing1:53:38 – The current era of pro climbing, and how pro climbing has evolved1:57:01 – Stories, podcasting, and creating balance2:00:25 – Joe’s movies, LOV as a creative outlet1:04:55 – How LOV (Life of Villains) got its name, and rooting for the villains in movies2:07:25 – More about LOV (the brand), and collaborations with non-profits2:12:07 – Patron Question from Devon: How do you pick athletes for the LOV shirts, and can you make a replica of the Bruce Lee shirt that Josune is wearing in her photo?2:14:57 – Fashion influences, confidence, my bleached hair, and Joe’s nicknames for me2:20:42 – Patron Question from Ben: How does Joe’s experience climbing on established routes differ from FA’s?2:23:02 – Patron Question from Simon: Who has Joe drawn inspiration from outside of the sport of climbing?2:25:05 – Graffiti2:28:03 – Joe’s experience with cancelation2:42:09 – My thoughts about Joe and him rebuilding a new life2:47:45 – Thanks and an apology2:48:07 – Gratitude and appreciation2:50:01 – Support mode, then on to the next

22 Marras 20212h 53min

Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ireland, living in Africa, founding Climb Malawi, adopting and raising his two black sons, Tyler’s work with The Climbing Initiative, and creating a better world through climbing.Donate To:safeclimbing.orgclimbmalawi.comclimbinginitiative.orgSupport the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-algeoNuggets:5:05 – Living in Cincinnati and growing up in Calgary6:14 – Learning to climb in Ireland9:50 – Working in Ireland10:13 – How Tyler and his wife ended up in Malawi14:24 – Having to return to the States due to Covid, and salary differences between foreign workers and locals in Malawi17:25 – Description of Malawi, the topography, and rock climbing 21:39 – The population of Malawi, and why so many people move there from neighboring African countries24:23 – Day-to-day life in Malawi 27:05 – Having a housekeeper, and the risks of creating an upside-down economy 30:05 – Good intentions gone awry32:58 – Tyler’s climbing leading up to Malawi, and building a wall in his backyard 37:21 – The socioeconomic divide in Malawi, and how Climb Malawi was born42:26 – Other artificial climbing in Malawi44:50 – Outgrowing the backyard climbing wall45:35 – Local climbing in Malawi47:24 – The Climb Malawi climbing wall and location description52:44 – Ernest54:29 – Outdoor trips and introducing Malawians to rock climbing55:31 – Memphis Rox as an inspiration, and the Climb Malawi business model1:00:03 – The impact of covid on Climb Malawi, and Malawi itself1:03:17 – Tyler’s continued involvement with Climb Malawi1:05:38 – How living in Malawi has shaped Tyler’s perspective of what the global climbing community looks like1:09:05 – Ugly entitlement, the game of climbing, and introducing people to climbing with humility1:14:11 – The Chichewa language, and some route names and phrases1:18:47 – Bodie and Moses (Tyler’s adopted boys)1:22:42 – Tyler’s thoughts on moving to Denver with two black sons, and how to provide them with mentorship1:31:33 – “Try to use your privilege with honor.”1:33:16 – The Climbing Initiative1:49:48 – How listeners can support Climb Malawi and TCI 1:51:45 – Tyler’s current climbing, and working on his mental performance and making sport climbing more life-giving1:58:43 – Who’s doing the more impressive thing, climbing at your emotional limit, grades, and having a relationship with each route2:03:01 – A better world through climbing2:07:35 – Gratitude for family and his wife

15 Marras 20212h 11min

Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite root beer, Kendama as focus training, chess, why Nathaniel still practices the basics of climbing, doing the FA of ‘The Grand Illusion’ V16, and sport climbing plans.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan FastBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathaniel-colemanNuggets:4:30 – Garbage trucks, and a Tuesday morning in the life of Nathaniel Coleman6:04 – What the two months following the Olympics have looked like for Nathaniel8:20 – Finding out that climbing would be in the Olympics and having qualifying as a goal10:44 – How Nathaniel’s goals evolved throughout the process11:45 – Nathaniel’s mantra for combined nationals 2019, and the journey to qualifying15:25 – How Nathaniel used his mantra, and self-belief vs. letting go of expectations17:25 – Confidence, upbringing, and competing for himself20:27 – The dice roll of competition22:10 – Climbing with Kyle O’Meara, Nathaniel’s relaxed approach to training as a teenager, comparing himself to Sean Bailey, and thriving on a plan with “adequate rest”25:50 – Balancing listening to motivation and pushing through it26:46 – Typical training volumes for World Cup climbers30:39 – How Nathaniel’s training to qualify for the Olympics vs. how he trained for Tokyo34:25 – Balancing World Cups with prep for Tokyo36:01 – Building a climbing “sauna” at the USA training center36:15 – Getting used to climbing in the heat and humidity40:41 – How Tokyo compared to the training sauna43:19 – What it was like to get on the plane and fly to Tokyo46:28 – The qualifying round in Tokyo, and realizing he made finals52:16 – Recalibrating goals after making finals53:48 – Finals1:03:18 – Watching Jacob top the lead route1:05:55 – Patron Question from Tyler: When it was all said and done, what did you think about the Olympic format?1:08:19 – More context about the Olympic format, and  Nathaniel’s thoughts on continuing to speed climb after Tokyo1:10:35 – Great Aunt Armida1:13:04 – Nathaniel’s Instagram posts after winning silver in Tokyo1:14:54 – What Nathaniel’s accomplishment meant for US climbing 1:17:59 – The first and second perspective-changing events in Nathaniel’s climbing career1:19:55 – Thoughts about hard outdoor rock climbing vs. competitions moving forward1:21:54 – How Nathaniel balances training for outdoor routes vs. competitions, and preparing for a trip to the Red1:24:25 – Context about ‘The Grand Illusion’1:25:02 – Patron Question from Nick: Do you have any plans to come back to work on the ‘Lee Majors’ extension?1:27:34 –  Patron Question from Timothy: Does Nathaniel ever see himself getting into highball bouldering or trad/big wall climbing?1:28:54 – Thoughts on retiring from competitions (when and why)1:30:40 – Rootbeer1:32:58 – Kendama1:35:55 – How Nathaniel still practicing the basics in climbing1:38:56 – Bonz Atron (the Chris Sharma of Kendama)1:40:18 – Chess1:41:28 – What Nathaniel does to relax and recharge1:42:52 – Special thanks to Josh, Zach, and Meg1:44:44 – Excited for the Red1:45:58 – Gratitude

8 Marras 20211h 48min