EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ireland, living in Africa, founding Climb Malawi, adopting and raising his two black sons, Tyler’s work with The Climbing Initiative, and creating a better world through climbing.

Donate To:

safeclimbing.org

climbmalawi.com

climbinginitiative.org

Support the Podcast:

thenuggetclimbing.com/support

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-algeo

Nuggets:

5:05 – Living in Cincinnati and growing up in Calgary

6:14 – Learning to climb in Ireland

9:50 – Working in Ireland

10:13 – How Tyler and his wife ended up in Malawi

14:24 – Having to return to the States due to Covid, and salary differences between foreign workers and locals in Malawi

17:25 – Description of Malawi, the topography, and rock climbing

21:39 – The population of Malawi, and why so many people move there from neighboring African countries

24:23 – Day-to-day life in Malawi

27:05 – Having a housekeeper, and the risks of creating an upside-down economy

30:05 – Good intentions gone awry

32:58 – Tyler’s climbing leading up to Malawi, and building a wall in his backyard

37:21 – The socioeconomic divide in Malawi, and how Climb Malawi was born

42:26 – Other artificial climbing in Malawi

44:50 – Outgrowing the backyard climbing wall

45:35 – Local climbing in Malawi

47:24 – The Climb Malawi climbing wall and location description

52:44 – Ernest

54:29 – Outdoor trips and introducing Malawians to rock climbing

55:31 – Memphis Rox as an inspiration, and the Climb Malawi business model

1:00:03 – The impact of covid on Climb Malawi, and Malawi itself

1:03:17 – Tyler’s continued involvement with Climb Malawi

1:05:38 – How living in Malawi has shaped Tyler’s perspective of what the global climbing community looks like

1:09:05 – Ugly entitlement, the game of climbing, and introducing people to climbing with humility

1:14:11 – The Chichewa language, and some route names and phrases

1:18:47 – Bodie and Moses (Tyler’s adopted boys)

1:22:42 – Tyler’s thoughts on moving to Denver with two black sons, and how to provide them with mentorship

1:31:33 – “Try to use your privilege with honor.”

1:33:16 – The Climbing Initiative

1:49:48 – How listeners can support Climb Malawi and TCI

1:51:45 – Tyler’s current climbing, and working on his mental performance and making sport climbing more life-giving

1:58:43 – Who’s doing the more impressive thing, climbing at your emotional limit, grades, and having a relationship with each route

2:03:01 – A better world through climbing

2:07:35 – Gratitude for family and his wife

Jaksot(385)

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

Shanjean Lee is an orthopedic surgeon and a badass climber whose accomplishments range from V10 boulders, to 5.14a sport, to 5.13+ trad and multi-pitch climbs. We talked about how SJ trained to climb ...

30 Maalis 20201h 58min

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for ...

23 Maalis 20201h 45min

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent...

16 Maalis 202058min

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stin...

24 Helmi 20201h 41min

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me us...

17 Helmi 20201h 38min

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face’ in ...

10 Helmi 20202h 17min

EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon

William Woodward (@wheretowillie on Instagram) is a climber, skier, and professional travel photographer. We talked about the beginnings of ‘Where to Willie’, balancing work and passion, finding meani...

3 Helmi 20201h 27min

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken

Chris Wright is a professional mountain guide who splits his time between guiding, skiing, and climbing some of the most remote peaks in the world. We talked about his recent team FA of Link Sar in Pa...

2 Helmi 20201h 33min

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