EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’

EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’

Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project, trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness.

*Nina also shared some exciting news in this episode!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, and Robert Freehill

Become a Patron:

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nina-caprez

Nuggets:

6:39 – Where in the world is Nina Caprez?

9:44 – Nina describes her camping scene in Greece, and finding a new balance between travel and adventure

12:41 – The climbing in southern Greece, and the Andrea Project and bringing climbing to refugee camps

17:31 – Speaking 4 languages, and Nina’s recent Andrea Project in Romania

22:38 – Trying to free The Nose, burning out, and starting the Andrea Project with Jeremy and building the truck

29:20 – Being fulfilled from her new lifestyle, and sharing her passion

32:17 – Why “failing” on The Nose was the best thing that has happened for Nina

36:26 – “It was really time to let go”, and spending 7 days on the wall with Lynn Hill

40:45 – Nina and Jeremy’s vision for the Andrea Project

44:19 – Inspiration, letting goals happen naturally, and complete satisfaction

46:08 – Leaning into different parts of herself as a woman

47:43 – Food guilt, Nina’s natural cycle with the seasons, and listening to her body

52:11 – Using a low carb diet to drop 2kg of weight for The Nose, and realizing it was too much

53:49 – Flirting with the line, and wanting to prove something to someone else

55:27 – Climbing as an escape, guilt and jealously, and softening

59:31 – Question from Steve McClure: How does Nina balance performance with adventure?

1:01:56 – Her first climb at age 13, and growing up in the mountains, and leaving home to evolve

1:04:42 – Living “gypsy style” in France

1:06:41 – Traveling, and some of the places Nina has fallen in love with

1:13:57 – You don’t have to go far away to find an adventure

1:15:04 – Feeling attracted to the East, and wanting to bring climbing to people in need

1:16:50 – How Andrea got its (her?) name

1:17:42 – Another question from Steve McClure: Have you thought about having kids?

1:21:23 – Stories from Nina’s proudest climbing achievements

1:26:51 – Patron question from Randall: What's your process for big walls? Rap in vs. ground up? How do you physically prepare for such an experience?

1:28:36 – Endurance as a strength, not feeling fear, and becoming comfortable living in the vertical space

1:32:24 – “Training” through climbing, and thriving on variety

1:36:49 – “We keep it as a secret…”

Jaksot(387)

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

Bill Ramsey is a professor of philosophy at the University of Nevada Las Vegas and at 59-years-old, still climbs 5.14. We talked about his coffee addiction, his legendary training days and how he uses...

13 Huhti 20201h 40min

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

Mike Doyle is an elite-level rock climber who balances climbing with a career as a software engineer. He also has a long history of competition climbing and coaching. We talked about lessons learned f...

6 Huhti 20201h 39min

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

Shanjean Lee is an orthopedic surgeon and a badass climber whose accomplishments range from V10 boulders, to 5.14a sport, to 5.13+ trad and multi-pitch climbs. We talked about how SJ trained to climb ...

30 Maalis 20201h 58min

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for ...

23 Maalis 20201h 45min

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent...

16 Maalis 202058min

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stin...

24 Helmi 20201h 41min

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me us...

17 Helmi 20201h 38min

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face’ in ...

10 Helmi 20202h 17min

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