EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’

EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’

Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project, trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness.

*Nina also shared some exciting news in this episode!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, and Robert Freehill

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nina-caprez

Nuggets:

6:39 – Where in the world is Nina Caprez?

9:44 – Nina describes her camping scene in Greece, and finding a new balance between travel and adventure

12:41 – The climbing in southern Greece, and the Andrea Project and bringing climbing to refugee camps

17:31 – Speaking 4 languages, and Nina’s recent Andrea Project in Romania

22:38 – Trying to free The Nose, burning out, and starting the Andrea Project with Jeremy and building the truck

29:20 – Being fulfilled from her new lifestyle, and sharing her passion

32:17 – Why “failing” on The Nose was the best thing that has happened for Nina

36:26 – “It was really time to let go”, and spending 7 days on the wall with Lynn Hill

40:45 – Nina and Jeremy’s vision for the Andrea Project

44:19 – Inspiration, letting goals happen naturally, and complete satisfaction

46:08 – Leaning into different parts of herself as a woman

47:43 – Food guilt, Nina’s natural cycle with the seasons, and listening to her body

52:11 – Using a low carb diet to drop 2kg of weight for The Nose, and realizing it was too much

53:49 – Flirting with the line, and wanting to prove something to someone else

55:27 – Climbing as an escape, guilt and jealously, and softening

59:31 – Question from Steve McClure: How does Nina balance performance with adventure?

1:01:56 – Her first climb at age 13, and growing up in the mountains, and leaving home to evolve

1:04:42 – Living “gypsy style” in France

1:06:41 – Traveling, and some of the places Nina has fallen in love with

1:13:57 – You don’t have to go far away to find an adventure

1:15:04 – Feeling attracted to the East, and wanting to bring climbing to people in need

1:16:50 – How Andrea got its (her?) name

1:17:42 – Another question from Steve McClure: Have you thought about having kids?

1:21:23 – Stories from Nina’s proudest climbing achievements

1:26:51 – Patron question from Randall: What's your process for big walls? Rap in vs. ground up? How do you physically prepare for such an experience?

1:28:36 – Endurance as a strength, not feeling fear, and becoming comfortable living in the vertical space

1:32:24 – “Training” through climbing, and thriving on variety

1:36:49 – “We keep it as a secret…”

Jaksot(383)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project...

21 Huhti 20252h 8min

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope...

15 Huhti 20252h 39min

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent re...

7 Huhti 20251h 23min

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climb...

1 Huhti 202529min

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her ...

24 Maalis 20252h 18min

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

​​EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing...

17 Maalis 20251h 55min

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project,...

10 Maalis 20251h 51min

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicit...

3 Maalis 20252h 40min

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