EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as a teenager, embracing athletics in her 30s, discovering climbing at age 42, sending her first 5.12a at age 53, yoga as the fountain of youth, and ageism in climbing.

*I loved this conversation. If you enjoy exploring different perspectives from your own, and hearing about others’ lived experiences, don’t skip this episode.

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Show Notes:

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Nuggets:

0:06:50 – A day in the life of Carol Simpson, and her home in Lone Pine

0:10:27 – Moving from Vegas to Lone Pine, having different chapters in our lives, and becoming apathetic about the beauty around you

0:13:23 – Being born in 1944

0:14:43 – Growing up in the South in the 50s as a “tomboy”, and feeling pressure to be more traditionally feminine

0:19:28 – Being raised to believe that women get married and have kids, and finding feminism

0:22:08 – Our adult life begins at 30

0:23:46 – Not being able to get a loan for a car without a man to sign for the loan

0:25:11 – Going back to school in her 30s with two kids, and starting to play tennis and running and trying other sports

0:30:30 – More about being a teenager in the 50s and 60s

0:32:58 – How the culture continues to change for women, and Carol’s daughters and granddaughters

0:37:45 – Discovering climbing at age 42, and how climbing completely changed her life

0:42:31 – Hitting the road to climb in her 40s, and early climbing training books

0:46:00 – Art, studying interior design in college, and working in the big city

0:52:04 – Scrambling a 4th class route, and getting a hard time for being a mountain goat

0:56:04 – John

0:59:58 – The book Lying by Sam Harriss, being honest with your partner, and some of Carol’s favorite climbing trips

1:04:25 – How Carol and John navigate their political differences

1:10:03 – What Carol appreciates most about John

1:12:39 – “You can’t get off of the bus.” - Mark Twight

1:16:36 – Redpoint climbing shop near Smith Rock, and redpointing Latin Lover 5.12a at age 53

1:24:29 – Question from Taylor: What are the things when it comes to aging as an athlete that people don’t think about?

1:31:22 – Practicing yoga since 1968

1:34:26 – Carol’s current yoga practice, and the yin and the yang

1:39:38 – The time commitment to see improvement through yoga, and taking care of your health

1:44:35 – Working with Chris Heilman, and expanding her comfort zone

1:53:59 – How Carol keeps her wits sharp, and how to remember names

1:58:40 – 80% of life is showing up

2:01:32 – Ageism, and showing respect for our elders

2:08:59 – No limits

Jaksot(382)

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

Paige Claassen is a professional rock climber and the founder of the Southern Africa Education Fund. We talked about pre-send rituals, breathing techniques, how she changed her diet to improve recover...

29 Kesä 20201h 4min

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

Jasna Hodžić is part writer, part scientific researcher, and part badass rock climber. We talked about sending her first 5.14a, ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ at Smith Rock, about practicing her anti-style to...

22 Kesä 20202h 20min

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

Justin Brown is the founder of Rhino Skin Solutions, a company that provides high-performance skincare products for rock climbers. We talked about best practices for skincare, tips for dialing skin fo...

15 Kesä 20201h 55min

EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love

EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love

Ethan Pringle is one of the best all-around rock climbers in the world. We talked about practice vs. training, lessons learned from 50 days projecting ‘The Nest’, taking care of his dad and his experi...

8 Kesä 20202h 1min

EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life

EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life

Chad Andrews is the maker of the Clipping Chains blog—a resource to help climbers navigate personal finance and move towards financial independence. We talked about reaching retirement at age 35, simp...

1 Kesä 20201h 52min

EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System

This is part 2 of my conversation with Mikey Schaefer. We talked about climbing as a finite resource, footwear for big walls, rope tricks, Mikey’s “fix and follow” system for team-free ascents, climbi...

25 Touko 202044min

EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid

Mikey Schaefer is a photographer, filmmaker, and an all-around climber whose accomplishments range from dangerous first ascents in the mountains to 5.13+ big walls, 5.14 sport climbs, and V10 boulders...

18 Touko 20201h 53min

EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy

EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy

Drew Ruana is a 20-year-old boulderer, sport climber, and competition climber who is quickly becoming one of the best rock climbers in the world. We talked about climbing ‘Sleepwalker’ (his first V16)...

11 Touko 20201h 34min

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